À la Parisienne: we need to make space for more al fresco dining – and less cars – in our cities
Demand for al fresco dining in London is strong, but there’s no space for restaurants to spread out on the streets. But we should be following this demand, like they do in France, writes Max Pearson-Smith
London’s hospitality industry has had a bumpy ride in the past three years, mainly because of the damages brought by the pandemic and the recent cost of living squeeze. It definitely needs a breath of fresh air.
Casual dining chains are struggling. Due to staffing shortages stemming back from Covid-19 times
and increased living costs driving customers away, it’s unsurprising that last year saw restaurant insolvencies rise by 64 per cent. Yet, there is clear demand for hospitality in the al fresco dining style which is not being met simply because restaurants and pubs lack the space. The National Restaurant Organization reported that out of the revenue made, 68 per cent of restaurants had 20 per cent or more of their daily takings from outdoor dining when they had the space.
As restaurants fast become another nail in the coffin for our high streets and social spaces, al fresco dining is the turn-around the hospitality industry needs. But to achieve that, we – and our policymakers – have to change the way we think about our cities and the space cars take up within them.
Upon recently moving to France, I found with a heavy heart London’s outdoor dining to be woefully behind the curve. The enthusiasm for outdoor dining crosses all age groups in France, and the industry has adapted to accommodate that demand. When it rains, electric awnings are rapidly set up and the party goes on.
The benefits of al fresco dining are not just limited to financial gains. Being out in the fresh air has health benefits and many of these restaurants are visually more attractive. For clear evidence of these benefits, look no further than Tenby in South Wales. Tenby bans cars in peak summer (except for obvious exceptions) and has a thriving and prosperous town centre. Indeed, in 2021 Tenby was ranked second best place to live in the UK.
With warmer weather on its way Londoners should take a cue from their European counterparts. When the area is available, demand can be expected. Restaurants should be able to unlock this additional revenue potential – but finding the space remains a roadblock.
The resounding success of the Strand Aldwych’s makeover shows that more pedestrianisation is the obvious solution. Finished six months ago, the space has shifted from a gridlocked, polluted nightmare to spacious, walkable greenery. I visited in January, and I was struck by the number of people enjoying the outdoor social space even in winter. For those worried about losing roads, you can rest assured that with greater pedestrianisation public transport and walking becomes more convenient. There should still be options for those who can’t travel on foot, but transportation will not be limited by increased al fresco dining.
Despite the obvious demand for outdoor dining and party spaces, the Mayor of London currently slaps venues with a £100 fee to apply to use their area. This generates extra money and minimises paperwork for local authorities. But if venues could more easily expand their seating the returns from VAT would hugely outweigh unnecessary application fees.
The success of street parties during the Coronation made it clear Brits are keen to make use of the space. Village parties are a long held tradition in the country; thousands choose to travel abroad to enjoy outdoor dining in continental Europe. If a small restaurant with two parking spaces outside could be turned into ten more covers, this should be supported, not hindered.
With summer just around the corner, the Mayor of London needs to pedestrianise spaces and support restaurants in creating outdoor dining areas to meet the demand. Restaurants and pubs, on their part, should be applying pressure to government to make this happen.