Burns Night booze: What to drink and where to drink it
Humans have been happily eating offal cooked inside an animal’s stomach for centuries. It was originally thought to be a quick and convenient way to cook perishable meats on the fire right after the hunt. This may be less of a necessity in our modern-day life, but the haggis retains a special pride of place thanks to the lyricism of Robert Burns and the continued Scottish tradition of Burns Night on 25th January.
Whether you are Scottish, claim some clan affiliation or just delight in a good dinner, it is always an enjoyable occasion particularly when done traditionally with Burns’ poem ‘Address to a Haggis’ recited over the dish. Bagpipers optional.
The haggis is rich, meaty, spicy, herbaceous and peppery and is served alongside “neeps and tatties”, otherwise known as turnips and potatoes. There is a lot of flavour going on here and with this kind of depth and intensity you need a wine to match perfectly to enhance this annual feast.
There are various ways you can go. Firstly, you might wish to combat power with power to create a compellingly intense experience. One of my absolute favourite wines for this is Yalumba The Cigar, a generously rounded Cabernet Sauvignon from the red soils of Australia’s Coonawarra (Harrods £28) with its opulent, warming spice it is the opulent choice for dinner. Syrah or Shiraz, with its typical black pepper notes, is likewise an excellent grape choice for a peppery haggis and Reyneke’s bold and silky Syrah (£19.95 VINVM) is a South African stunner. A biodynamic wine, it is produced with a holistic approach to the vines and chemical free, resulting in pure notes of fragrant herbs, spice, and red fruit to accentuate your Burns Night dish.
If you are a white wine drinker, then I am going to be bold and suggest a Viognier. Perhaps not your immediate choice but I long ago concluded that floral Viognier can actually pair brilliantly with a range of dishes. Often described as a white wine for red wine drinkers, the satiny, sometimes slightly oily texture of the wine acts as a foil for the peppery spice of the haggis and the fruity juiciness compliments the earthy richness of the meat. Saint Clair ‘Pioneer Block’ Viognier from New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay (Majestic £18.99) takes lessons from the French-style Condrieu but delivers it with an undeniably Kiwi twist resulting in fresh yet complex drinking that will never disappoint.
One of my favourite wines right now is the controversial Hey French: You Could Have Made This But You Didn’t NV Bianco Veneto, from Italian producer Pasqua (Majestic £34.99). This is a wine that causes a stir for multiple reasons, not least the playfully combative name. It is a blend of grapes and, unusually for a still wine, vintages and it is also absolutely delicious, delivering a refreshing richness of flavour with unfolding layers of stone fruits, zest, a structured light nuttiness and elegant spice. One must not judge a wine by its label of course, but the fact this one is cool, edgy and arty means it will also be an excellent talking point should conversation around the table run dry.
Of course, whisky is the traditional accompaniment for a Burns Night dinner, but for me no beverage can stand the course of any entire meal like wine. Whether a compliment or a contrast, red or white, it is the best way to elevate your sheep’s stomach this year. Slàinte!
Wine Recommendations
Nooh Château La Coste – £36 WanderlustWine.co.uk
If you are sticking to your dry January guns then this is the fine wine version of a non-alcoholic sparkling rosé from Provence producers La Coste. Zippy and fresh with lively bubbles and delicate fruits.
Louis Jadot Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fuisse 2021 – £42.70 Wholefoods
A fantastic example of a classic, classy Pouilly Fuisse with attractive white blossoms over sleek, clean stone. Perfectly balanced and gracefully fine-tuned this is a food-friendly wine with poise and personality.
Orin Swift Eight Years in the Desert 2020 – £60 Majestic
A mighty wine of power and prowess, this is a lush combination of Californian Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Syrah and Grenache that will warm your cockles and wrap you up in its velvety depths. A bottle to beat any January blues.
Yangarra Old Vine Grenache 2021 – £31.50 The Good Wine Shop
Winner of the Wine Companion Wine of the Year this beautiful red comes from gnarly old vines planted in 1946 and opens up in the glass with a perfumed concentration and an unexpectedly refined lightness of touch.
Codorníu Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling White Wine – £5.90 Amazon
For the Cava lovers on a detox this is the creation of the Spanish sparkling pioneers Codorniu and delivers an excellent glass of fresh citrus, green apples and zippy fine bubbles. Seriously satisfying non-alcoholic sipping.