Dish that’s orbit of a guilty pleasure
Daniel McGarey, head chef at Canary Wharf restaurant Plateau, on his Hawking tribute
Why did you choose The Theory of Everything as your inspiration for this dish?
The Theory of Everything is one of my favourite recent movies and while I am not a scientist, I believe I have a good basic understanding. I find it rather fascinating and inspiring.
How is the film reflected in the dish?
I decided to create a scene based on the start of the universe, with a black dome filled with orange parfait, to represent the sun, the source of life for our planet. The dessert illustrates the feelings of action, science, experimentation and movement – things being busy and being created. The dome showcases the main elements, with the surroundings depicting the science in motion.
In your experience, how do customers respond to “themed” menus?
I think themed specials always have a place on a menu; it’s really no different to a signature dish. Special dishes like these present an opportunity for guests to read about them beforehand and then find out if it tastes as good as it looks.
Have you done any before, and, if so, which ones have been your favourites?
The closest I have come to doing something similar was for a wine event based on countries and historic figures, creating menus based on Auguste Escoffier’s teachings. I find that these thematic creations really allow me to let my creativity flow.
What’s the trickiest part about preparing this dish and what’s your top tip for amateur cooks?
This dish has a lot of different elements, but if you take things one step at a time, you won’t have any problems. Just be careful with the honeycomb: one second you have a gentle caramel; you add the bicarbonate and whoosh, you’ll have about 10 cm of very hot honeycomb.
Where did you start your cooking career and how did you end up at Plateau?
I started cooking 13 years ago in a pub, just at the weekends. I got hooked. My careers advisor put me touch with Bournemouth’s specialised chef programme, where I studied for three years while working at One Aldwych. From there I went onto Marcus Wareing’s Pétrus, followed by the Dorchester, and have recently finished at Galvin at Windows. I have always heard great things about the D & D brand so when I was told that Plateau Canary Wharf was looking for a head chef I jumped at the chance. When I walked in I saw two things: a beautiful restaurant and massive potential.
What’s the ethos behind Plateau?
Plateau is a restaurant of two halves; we have the bar and grill, which is more informal with music, service and food driven by flavour and seasonality. The main restaurant is modern French using the best of British ingredients in a fresh, clean way. I don’t like clutter on plates, everything is there for a reason.
What makes working in Canary Wharf different to working in the West End?
There is a really exciting buzz about working here, and I feel I can be just as creative with the dishes as if I were in the West End. The visitors we get are always looking for something new so I am constantly challenged and it keeps me energised.
Dish of the day
Plateau’s Flavours of the Universe dessert
INGREDIENTS (SERVES 4)
■ 310g white sugar
■ 45ml water
■ 1 large egg + 1 large egg yolk
■ 250ml milk
■ 61g flour + 11g cornflour
■ 50g pastry cream
■ 110g whipping cream
■ 45g orange flavouring + zest
■ 125g orange juice
■ 60g almond flour
■ 12g cocoa
■ 60g butter
■ 60g Demerara sugar +125g glucose syrup
■ 12g honey + 4g bicarbonate
Method
ITALIAN MERINGUE
• Boil 100g sugar and 30ml water to 121 degrees to form a syrup. Whisk one egg and 30g sugar to form the meringue. Pour in the syrup slowly in between whisks to cook and thicken the egg whites until you have a shiny smooth meringue.
PASTRY CREAM
• Boil milk with orange zest and a drop of vanilla. Mix the egg yolk, 75g sugar, 11g flour and the cornflour in a separate bowl. Pour a third into the pan and stir until it reaches a custard consistency. Chill.
PARFAIT ORANGE
• Mix pastry cream and orange flavouring in a bowl, then add the Italian meringue. Whip the cream and add to the mixture until it’s smooth. Place into moulds and freeze.
ORANGE CARAMEL
• Reduce the orange juice and 60g sugar until you have a dark orange caramel.
TO GARNISH: DARK COCOA CRUMBLE
• Place the almond flour, 50g flour, cocoa, butter and Demerara sugar into a tray and bake. Keep stirring until the mixture forms a crumble.
HONEYCOMB
• Be careful as this can be very hot. Add 15ml water, 75g sugar, honey, glucose syrup and bicarbonate into a pan and boil to 118 degrees. When it’s a golden brown colour, add the bicarbonate and the mixture will increase in volume. Mix quickly, pour into a tray and store in a cool place.