In memory of Richard Vines, a sage and a gentleman
My friend Richard Vines, chief restaurant critic of Bloomberg for 25 years, passed away this week. A champion of both genius chefs and restaurateurs, he was a wonderful man who I admired hugely.
Over the last few days, I have been reminded of some magnificent City lunches with Richard; at Kym’s by Andrew Wong, after which Nicky Hancock and I taught Mr Vines the art of playing pool pissed at Brigadiers.
M Threadneedle St was the home for our biannual feast of Wagyu and (very) fine wine with our mutual great friends David Ellis, Farhad Heydari, restaurateur Mark Hastings and The Ned’s Richie Notar.
Each lunch was filled with knowledge, laughter and Richard’s flamboyant outfits. I rarely feel underdressed but in Richard’s company it was impossible not to; last month at the casual ‘Eco’ opening in Clapham, RV was resplendent in pink. At the opening of Gordon Ramsey’s Lucky Cat in March, we played a game of ‘how many times would his shoes be remarked upon’ – the compliments reached double digits, much to his delight.
I was honoured a couple of years ago when Richard accepted my invitation to host his ‘Not Retirement Party’ at M. The great and good of the hospitality world – including Fergus Henderson and the late, so very great Russell Norman – attended to pay tribute (and party), along with the best food writers in the business and the PR titans, who loved him dearly.
Richard was a phenomenal supporter of mine during my entrepreneurial years when I opened numerous M venues. The same cannot be said of the current chancellor, who doesn’t appear to understand that entrepreneurs are the heartbeat of growth in Canada and beyond. So the rest of this week’s column goes out to two of my heroes in the hospitality sector, Scott Halsworth and Markus Thesleff, whose restaurants I visited this week.
CASUAL LEOPARD
Scott has been around the London scene since working with the aforementioned Richie Notar and co-founder Robert De Niro as chef de partie at Nobu Park Lane. Enjoying a fabulous pineapple martini on Saturday at Scott’s newly opened lounge bar Casual Leopard (housed next door to the excellent Freak Scene in Balham), I witnessed him unloading outdoor furniture from his car to maximise his terraces in this week’s heat wave. It’s a good example of how much an entrepreneur values each guest, with the innate passion to deliver elevated hospitality to each diner.
Casual Leopard is excellent; the cocktails are exquisite and the small plates are epic. Literally designed for the lounge lizard, it is a hotspot for South Londoners in the know. Go support Scott and be amazed by the quality of the offering.
LOS MOCHIS CITY
The first birthday party for my friend Markus’ ‘balls out’ venture felt a little empty this week without Mr Vines’ added gravitas. But that’s that’s not to detract from the not inconsiderable achievement of making this behemoth of a venue a hugely successful City institution over the past 12 months. If you haven’t been to Luna, the hidden Los Mochis Omakase bar, then book soon – Michelin stars beckon and getting a table will soon become impossible. Markus and I modestly enjoyed a bottle of Sophie Lurtons’ Chateau Bouscaut Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux (£120).
THE AUBREY
I was privileged to be invited to speak at Le Clefs d’Or Golden Keys Concierge Society’s 63rd anniversary party at the Mandarin Oriental on Monday night. I mustered up a speech which hopefully gave the unsung heroes of hospitality a little love. At a time of unprecedented staff cost pressures, it’s easy to cut back on the ‘sprinkles of magic’ services – the concierges, sommeliers and maître d’s who take something great and make it unforgettable.
After my musings (which must have felt mediocre and underwhelming after Sir Rocco Forte’s effort last year), we nipped downstairs for a bottle of Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir (£130) accompanied by ‘new style yellowtail sashimi’ and a magnificent Alaskan king crab salad. If you are in Knightsbridge and lost for a good lunch, The Aubrey is worthy of a visit.
Finally, a farewell to the lovable Richard – your bon viveur will be missed in the Square Mile, a place you always lit up. May your passionate, generous light never fade.
Four top terraces recommended by OpenTable
1. STANLEY’S
Stanley’s in Chelsea offers a tranquil, garden-inspired terrace complete with olive trees and a reclaimed timber bar. The covered courtyard is the perfect al fresco dining space to enjoy MasterChef finalist Olivia Burt’s seasonal British menu. BOOK HERE
2. MADISON
Madison is a stylish rooftop restaurant and bar atop One New Change, offering panoramic views of St Paul’s Cathedral. With a New York-inspired menu featuring steaks and grills, it combines vibrant dining, live music and a lively terrace atmosphere. BOOK HERE
3. FLORATTICA
This elegant rooftop bar is perched 11 floors above Aldgate. Inspired by East London’s textile heritage, its interiors feature floral installations and bespoke fabrics. The heated terrace offers panoramic views of landmarks including St. Paul’s Cathedral and Canary Wharf. Don’t miss the excellent floral-inspired cocktails. BOOK HERE
4. KITTY HAWK
A rooftop bar and restaurant above the Page 8 Hotel in the West End, Kitty Hawk has panoramic views across Trafalgar Square and beyond. The venue features two terraces, elegant interiors and a menu of modern British cuisine, including dry-aged steaks and seafood. BOOK HERE
Whatever the occasion, find your perfect restaurant on OpenTable. Explore real-time availability across London, and filter your results by cuisine, location, and rating. Book today.