Italy holidays: Why Bergamo and Brescia are the Italian places we love this summer
Italy holidays: Italy’s dual City of Cultures make a great break, says Sophie Ibbotson
THE WEEKEND: In recent years, the UK has chosen Hull, Derry, and Coventry as its annual City of Culture. Bradford’s turn is next. The Italians seem to take things a little more seriously, and have awarded this year’s cultural crown to not one but two magnificent cities in Lombardy. Together, Bergamo and Brescia make the perfect long weekend.
WHAT TO SEE IN BERGAMO: Climb the mediaeval Civic Tower overlooking Bergamo’s Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore for the best views of the Citta Alta, the Old Town. From this vantage point you will also appreciate how green Bergamo is: there are ample gardens and parks, and also fields in the middle of the city. It is then an easy stroll downhill to GaMEC, the gallery of contemporary art, housed in a 15th century monastery. Join a guided tour to get the most from the often-interactive artworks drawn from what the curator describes as an “impermanent collection”. Paintings by Ai Weiwei and Yayoi Kusama are tucked between those by lesser-known artists.
WHAT TO SEE IN BRESCIA: Peel back more than 2,000 years of history in Brescia, starting with the two Roman temples — one buried in the ground beneath the other — in the Capitolium. Some of the original frescoes and decorative flooring survive in situ, while other buildings have been sensitively reconstructed. Excavations of the Roman theatre next door are ongoing, and if Museum Director Stefano Karadjov is able to realise his vision, it will once again be possible to sit in the lower portion of the theatre to watch a live performance. You can then jump forward a millennia in time and tour the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo, one of Italy’s best small art galleries. Here a recent collaboration with artist and celebrity Anish Kapoor sees 400 years of Italian masterpieces — including two oils by the Renaissance painter Raphael — strikingly rehung on a backdrop of vibrantly coloured velvets, often in unexpected hues.
WHAT’S SPECIAL THIS YEAR? The 2023 Capital of Cultural programme has something new almost every week, including concerts, shows and art installations. Top of the billing this summer is “Winged Victory in conversation with The Boxer”, the first ever meeting of two of Ancient Rome’s most impressive sculptures. The museum is housed within an extensive monastery complex with extraordinary painted chapels. Its grounds include recently excavated Roman villas with many of their original mosaics and wall and ceiling paintings intact.
WHERE TO STAY: The L’Albereta hotel is ideally situated on the edge of the Bellavista Winery in the Franciacorta wine region, almost equidistant between Bergamo and Brescia. The guest rooms overlook gardens and well tended vineyards, with a sparkling glimpse of Lake Iseo on the horizon. The hotel is lavishly decorated and feels like a sprawling private villa, but with the welcome addition of an extensive spa and two excellent restaurants. The chef at Leone Felice Vista Lago has even created a fourcourse tasting menu inspired by Bergamo-Brescia Italian Capital of Culture.
TOP TIP: Wine lovers should book a tour and tasting at the Bellavista Winery, within walking distance of L’Albereta. Oenologist Francesca Moretti creates crisp, dry and sweet sparkling wines which are perfect for an aperitif, especially when paired with a few delicate slices of local cheeses and olives
Plan an Italy holiday yourself
Visit albereta.it; rooms from €360 per night
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