Libby in Paris: How to drink wine like the French
There’s something so effortlessly chic about Parisians. The French way of life is tightly woven with centuries of excellent wine-making, and they seem to drink it beautifully. I popped over for Bastille Day to see if I could learn to sip with similar sophistication.
It began as soon as I arrived. I had booked a room at Maison Colbert, a glamorous little hotel in the oldest part of Paris, just across from Notre-Dame. Part of the Melia Hotel Collection, it was named best art boutique hotel in Europe in 2022. The rooms are themed around the works of Sorolla (who once lived in this part of Paris) and blend luxury with artistic bohemianism. At check-in I was offered champagne and chocolate truffles, and in my room awaited a bottle of chilled crémant and some sweet little embossed macarons. So far, so Emily in Paris.
Much of historic Paris is within strolling distance and after a morning on foot I had built up a thirst. Reception directed me to nearby SOLA – a peaceful space blending Japanese ceramics, French wine, sake and tea tastings. I asked the sommelier what the French typically drink to celebrate Bastille Day. “Red wine, something easy to drink and well balanced like a Côtes du Rhône or a red from the Languedoc,” she said. She poured us a trendy pét-nat from the Savoie region, which she told us is the next big thing. “It’s the new Jura,” she added. You heard it here first.
SOLA specialises in organic and natural wines. “There can be prejudice here because winemaking is passed down through generations, it is traditional,” the sommelier said, “but younger French drinkers are increasingly interested in biodynamic, lower-alcohol and less conventional wines.”
I’m not always thrilled by “natty” wines, but I was poured one of the most fascinating whites I’ve had recently. I was delighted to find that the Alexandre Bain Pierre Précieuse is available in the UK (£27.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd), and I’ll be snapping up more. Just another reason to trust a sommelier and try something new.
One of the key differences between French and English drinkers is the inclusion of food. Wine is embedded in the national psyche as part of mealtimes. Our sommelier told us that even though her husband doesn’t like wine, he will always have a glass at lunch and dinner. “It is our way,” she added with a Gallic shrug.
Later that evening, at the shimmering Shangri-La Paris, I spoke with our waiter about the tradition of apéro (short for apéritif), a cherished French custom of enjoying drinks and light snacks after work and before dinner. Thinking of London, I compared it to our post-work pints, often without food. With straight-faced severity, he replied, “Yes, you can do that if you are an alcoholic, or you can have an enjoyable experience with some food.” Consider me told.
No trouble combining wine and food at the Summer Terrace by Lacoste. With freshly pressed staff dressed by the fashion label and tiny crocodiles decorating the plates and menus, it was a marvel. My guest audibly gasped as we entered the leafy, flowering courtyard, filled with birdsong and late afternoon light, the Eiffel Tower rising above us. Champagne was poured, dining recommendations were gently offered (the crispy tuna is “fun”, the black cod is “sensational”), and a cheeseboard appeared, despite being technically off-menu. Emily in Paris, eat your heart out.
No one overdid it. Returning to the Latin Quarter near midnight, the streets were buzzing but civilised. Despite being in the centre of a capital city, I had a wonderfully peaceful night’s sleep. At breakfast the next morning, I noticed a chilled bottle of crémant among the spread. Lesson learned: chic Parisians can drink at any time of day, just as long as it’s with food.
www.melia.com
www.shangri-la.com
www.sola-cc.com
Wine recommendations
Douro, Tesco Finest – £11.50, Tesco
Portugal’s Douro region creates some of the most wonderful table wines at ridiculously good prices, and this is a steal. A rich, satin-smooth red full of sunshine, warmth, deep fruit and well-balanced spice. A must for red-blooded barbecue lovers or a meaty ragù.
La Noë Muscadet Sur Lie – £16.50, The Wine Society
A lovely little Muscadet Sur Lie, an underrated pleasure that consistently flies under the mainstream radar. A crowd-pleaser, but not to be mistaken for a simple wine. Fresh, lively, well balanced and with a pleasing roundness. Excellent with fish, salad or simply a quiet moment to yourself.
Champagne Bruno Paillard 2012 – £92, Wanderlustwine.co.uk
Tasted at the launch of the OWO’s Paper Moon Terrace in partnership with Bruno Paillard, the 2012 stood out with its aromatic nose, vibrant energy and refined bubbles. A great vintage, aged eight years on the lees with additional bottle age, giving beautiful complexity and richness.
Wine pairing: sushi × sparkling sake
I’d love to say I can make sushi. I can’t. But a midweek takeaway is often my choice for something simple and reasonably healthy. I feel far more sophisticated when I pair it with sake. Sparkling sake tends to be lower in alcohol, and this Akashi-Tai Junmai Ginjo (£15, Waitrose) is only 7 percent, making it a perfect midweek pick. Its light, gently fruity flavour complements sushi without overwhelming it, while the bubbles cleanse the palate between bites. Its freshness and subtle sweetness contrast beautifully with savoury soy and the heat of wasabi. Aromatic and elegant — you’ll never go back to wine with your sushi again.