South American wine is booming – try these bottles for the best experience
South American wine is booming for us Brits. An Argentinian Malbec has long been a gateway, converting consumers with broodingly smooth glasses of dark fruits and spice at a good price. Last year the UK overtook China as the largest importer (by value) of Chilean wine with their lithe Sauvignon Blancs and traditional Carmère. Even lesser known Uruguay has an Albarino stocked at Ocado (M&S Albarino Uruguay £10), though it is their national red grape tannat that you should really look out for.
At lunch with a friend recently, two glasses of crisp sparkling wine were served to us that we struggled to place. Precise, vivid, clearly traditional method, it turned out to be from the high-altitude slopes of Brazil. A delicious revelation!
What better to go with South American wine than South American food? Here are two places that get it absolutely right.
Where to drink the best South American wine in London
Fazenda – Bishopsgate
Take a trip to Brazil without leaving the Square Mile, but be sure to wear your loosest clothing as this place won’t stop feeding you. There is an all-you-can eat style buffet of meats, vegetables, cheeses, salads and small plates but, though tempting, do not make the mistake of filling your plate. The main event is their Churrasco Experience where smiling waiters come to your table and carve slices of steak, lamb, chicken and pork. As long as your coaster is flipped to the green side, they will keep appearing. Nor is it just succulent, spiced, marinaded meats. There is butter-bathed lobster tail and, a knockout hit of the table, the scallops served with wagyu beef tallow and breadcrumbs. It’s an indulgent, fill you right up to the top extravaganza of Brazilian cuisine and their wine list is similarly brimming with South American treasures. Boldly proclaiming South America as the “most exciting wine region in the world”, it also includes a map and urges you to learn more about the places and people who make the wines. This is a heartfelt entreaty to open a few bottles, and I did not let them down.
Reassuringly robust Malbecs from Humberto Canale, Catena and – one of the best and most unique expressions – Zuccardi’s Concreto. A game-changer for the grape, the wine is aged in concrete rather than traditional oak barrels, giving it an amazing purity and vibrancy. We even had a white Malbec by Osado to go with the seafood and salads. Pais blends from Chile, sparkling wines from Argentina and Brazil – browse the bottles on display. It is a treasure trove dedicated to these countries.
Sucre – Soho
Sucre takes the Latin-American tradition of open-fire cooking and turns it into a glamorous night out with the finest of wines.
Tall ceilings, low lit chandeliers and a fire at the end of the room, shimmering across the marble and mirrored walls. Executive Chef Jack Godik, from the Gaucho dynasty, is dedicated in his service of Latin and South American dishes with his own particular fire-led twist.
Chicken hearts in a Malbec and chocolate glaze, his signature Iberico pork matambre, slow-cooked lamb skewers topped with biting green chillies. The fresh seafood is also a joy, especially a surprising little dish of citrus infused ceviche topped with strawberries.
The wine list is a story of immigration, celebrating the European grapes and people who travelled to South America and created these wines over hundreds of years. We left ourselves in the capable Sommelier’s hands and were poured structured Semillon from old vines in Patagonia, Colomé Malbec from the extreme slopes of Salta and the exemplary Sena, Chile’s first icon wine.
Branch out with Brazilian bubbles like the crisp, balanced Ponto Nero Cult Brut (greatwine.co.uk £17.75) or swap your New Zealand Sauvignon for Chile’s LFE Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc (Majestic £9).
As the nights get colder, pick a warming red like the classic crowd-pleaser DV Catena Vineyard Designated Malbec (Tesco £22) and the weightily superb House of Morande 2019 (hic-winemerchants.com £45). Embrace that South American influence this autumn, not just for its value but for its premium quality too.