Spanish wine: What I’ve learned and where to drink it
Spanish wines are changing. At the annual Spanish Wine Tasting earlier this year I was struck by how the traditional styles are evolving and many of our preconceptions must be thrown out the window. Here are some of the top trends I noticed.
Red wines are getting lighter
There is still plenty of power but, though there were a few traditional heavy, richly-oaked bottles, overall there was more refinement, less oak aging, less of those rigid, grippy tannins. Getting ready for the sunshine, these modern styles ranged from light Riojas to chillable reds for summer, such as the brilliantly smashable Al Fresco (£8.50, Co-op).
White wines are on the rise
Aligning with a global dietary shift towards pescetarian, vegetarian and vegan diets, more winemakers are planting white grapes. All styles were present, from aged white riojas with depth and grip to the popular saline Albarinos, creamy Godellos and the fresh and zippy Grenacha Blancas, such as the sublime Tempore Symphony (£16.95, vintageroots.co.uk).
Affordable sparkling
It kills me that Cava still has not got the acclaim it deserves when so many are skilfully made and far more cost effective than their French equivalents. Trendy Pet Nats made an appearance as well as Corpinnat, a more tightly controlled Spanish sparkling wine. These wines must be 100 per cent organic, hand-harvested and aged for the minimum of 18 months (rather than Cava’s nine). My fizz find was Segura Viudas Vintage Cava (£12, Tesco). Thankfully, some of the best restaurants in London have caught on: hats off to the following two for their Spanish wine selection.
Amazonico, Mayfair
Stepping into this maximalist den of dreams, with its gold and leafy jungle décor, you could be mistaken for thinking you had just entered Mayfair’s most glamorous nightclub. In fact, there is often a DJ or live band playing somewhere but thankfully (for me) the focus is on dining rather than dancing.
Here wine director Vincent Pastorello has chosen to highlight the premium wines of Spain and South America. This may seem natural with their steaks and grilled meats but how would they fare with the menu’s zesty ceviche, whole baked fish (deboned and filleted at the table) and platters of the best, most delicate sushi I have recently enjoyed?
As it turns out, triumphantly. Here the new face of Spanish wine is perfectly expressed. Fine-boned elegant whites, seductively juicy, light reds. Bottles can go up to the thousands (though there are still plenty of brilliant producers to be enjoyed for under £100), so Amazonico is somewhere to don your glamorous best and take your time over a superbly fun meal and many glasses of high-class Spanish wine.
Hispania, Bank
If you want Spanish hospitality delivered with flair, then look no further than the Square Mile. Having visited previously for events (their central staircase is a thing of Instagram dreams) it was an utter pleasure to come for lunch.
Traditional dishes get a Hollywood makeover while staying true to their roots. Ingredients are fresh and many served with a bit of tableside theatre. The jamon is carved straight from the pig’s leg and served with a small glass of chilled Fino. Gazpacho has never looked more glamourous, wheeled out on a gold trolly and served in vintage style cocktail glasses with a tomato and courgette garnish. Perfectly chilled, dotted with the finest olive oil and paired with a Manzanilla it is Summer’s finest starter.
A langoustine is decapitated over a poached egg and fried potatoes, and we are invited to “suck the head” as they would in Spain. Our sommelier serves this dish with a light Garnacha, proving that Spanish red wines are now so fine they can match seafood. The pairing of the day was the caramelised rice pudding and a tiny glass of iced cider, both specialities of the Asturias region. I am not usually a dessert person but do not miss this course. Salud!
Wines of the week
Virgile Joly Organic Cybèle 2022, Naked Wines, £23.99 (Angel Price, £17.99; see how below), nakedwines.co.uk
Described as a love letter to Mourvèdre, these lovingly tended, hand-harvested grapes are blended with Syrah and Grenache in what must be one of the most satisfying combos in the winemaking world. Organically farmed in France’s Languedoc region to create a bold, savoury red balanced between dark forest fruits and wild garden herbs; this is a red wine for the summer months.
Henners Vintage 2018, £42.95, ndjohn.co.uk
I love discovering excellent English wines and this really is something brilliant. A tiny bottling of one of the best years on record for British wine, this skilfully crafted sparkling has been aged for at least four years on the lees. Created near the cost of East Sussex, it’s a slick, classy, vibrant bottle of bubbles.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling 2022, £21.30, VINVM
A collaboration between the renowned Chateau Ste. Michelle and Riesling experts Dr Loosen, this is a fantastic dry Riesling from Washington State in the USA. With a flinty cool minerality but layers of white blossom, citrus and hints of honey this is a wonderfully refreshing, complex wine.
Mar de Frades Albarino 2024, £17.50, Tesco
The iconic blue bottle is back with the latest vintage release of the grape Spain’s Rias Baixas does so well, Albarino. Crisp, supple with a beautiful delicately saline kiss of the sea, this is an ideal pairing with any seafood dishes. Chill it down and when a boat appears on the label, it’s ready to drink.
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