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Friday 09 January 2026 12:16 pm  |  Updated:  Friday 09 January 2026 12:18 pm

This new City pub has a controversial past life

By: Adam Bloodworth

Features Journalist

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The Hoop and Grapes opens in Farringdon in February

A pub that first opened over three hundred years ago is set to reopen on Fleet Street next month. The Hoop and Grapes isn’t just any 17th century inn: it has a particularly interesting story.

The pub was one of a handful of locations where controversial ‘Fleet Marriages’ took place. They were ceremonies between people who had been ostracised by ordinary society and couldn’t marry under normal circumstances. People getting these marriages included couples who were expecting children out of wedlock, people in bigamous relationships trying to avoid being noticed, and people who fell in love from different classes.

New signage depicting scenes from these clandestine weddings feature within the renovated pub’s design. One in particular to look out for is the traditional swinging sign outside, which displays a classic scene from one of these secretive occasions.

The thorough refit brings the pub into the 21st century. Across the five-storey building there are three different vibes: the ground floor remains a classic London pub, the first floor has a fully-covered outdoor heated terrace, and the third floor is an intimate piano room for private groups.

Food-wise the menu specialises in British pub classics and seasonal British ingredients. Early highlights include Whitstable Bay beer-battered haddock and chips and tandoori chicken skewers with warm quinoa salad. There’s also a special focus on oysters served in a variety of ways.

The Grade II listed pub closed in 2019 during a redevelopment of the area. The £1.8 million renovation is by the Shepherd Neame pub company, who also brew their own beers including the Spitfire Amber, and the Bear Island and Whitstable Bay collections. The business runs 286 pubs throughout London and the South East.

It is estimated that one pub per day closes in Britain. Many landlords say new tax hikes for bricks and mortar businesses has made operational costs harder than ever. Over a thousand landlords banned Labour MPs from their premises following the Government’s new business rates.

“Pubs are facing demands for thousands of pounds in additional business rate taxes – some are seeing the tax double, and it’s not unusual under the new system for the bill to rise from £50,000 to over £100,000,” wrote Morning Wire’s Editor Christian May recently. “That’s exactly what’s happening to chef and pub owner Tom Kerridge, now a leading voice in the fight to save pubs. It would perhaps be churlish to point out that Mr Kerridge was among the handful of business leaders to endorse Labour before the last election.”

Go to hoopandgrapes.co.uk

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‘Brilliant and provocative’ columnist and broadcaster Rod Liddle dies aged 66

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