Veganuary restaurants in London: The best vegan food around
‘Veganuary’ is upon us, but there’s so much more to London’s meat-free food scene than the one-month fad can do justice to. Alex Dalzell goes in search of the places that take their veg seriously, from all-American burgers and fries in Mayfair to flame-licked leeks and burnt beetroot in Dalston.
Mildreds
Various locations
When the original Mildreds opened on Greek Street in 1988, it’s safe to say the demand for meat-free cooking was nothing like it is today. Hense the expansion to five restaurants dotted across the capital, all serving a series of globe-hopping menus that have you in the spice-heavy subcontinent one moment and America’s deep south the next.
123V
Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, Mayfair
Taking a change of direction from his Michelin-starred flagship in Soho, Alexis Gauthier channels LA’s casual brunch spots at the Mayfair department store with a breezy vibe and a menu packed with all-American classics – including an oozing Beyond Meat cheeseburger that rivals any meat alternative.
Rovi
59 Wells Street, Fitzrovia
Plant-based menus might be par for the course for Yotam Ottolenghi, but the emphasis on live-fire cooking and fermentation at this neighbourhood favourite marks a new direction for the chef. While sustainably sourced fish and meat do make an appearance, it’s the humble vegetable that’s the star of the show here, in dazzling dishes like chewy grilled carrots with hawaij-spiced lentils and pickled kumquats.
The Gate
51 Queen Caroline Street, Hammersmith; 370 St John Street, Islington
Michael and Adrian Daniel have been pioneering plant-based eating long before it hit the mainstream. Stemming from an Indo-Iraqi heritage, the brothers recreate the diverse Arabic, Indian and Jewish flavours of their childhood, with beautifully plated dishes such as the seitan and cauliflower shawarma served with plump flat bread and a fiery Middle Eastern chilli sauce.
Acme Fire Cult
Abbot Street, Dalston
Cooking over open flame is having a moment in the capital right now, but very few places are venturing beyond grilling slabs of meat like the guys at Acme Fire Cult. Paying as much attention to leeks, celeriac, and beetroot, the blackened vegetables are served with an intoxicating array of sauces, dips and sides – many made using by-products from 40ft Brewery who they share the yard with. A great option for veganuary.
Mallow Canary Wharf
12 Park Drive, Canary Wharf
The second Mallow brasserie is a little more casual than the London Bridge original but no less impressive. The dining room is a colourful haven from the concrete and glass of Canary Wharf and the menu’s one of the most inventive in the area – with globe-trotting small plates like pakora okra with perfectly piquant mango pepper sauce and wild mushroom tortelloni in miso butter stealing the show.
Farmacy
74-76 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill
Sourcing most of its ingredients from its farm in Kent, the team creates a seasonal menu that boasts ‘clean indulgence’ – at first glance at the menu, you wouldn’t guess that everything here is free from dairy, refined sugar, chemicals and additives. Health fads come and go in London, but this plant-based restaurant has stood the test of time and trends. Perfect for veganuary.
Bubala
15 Poland Street, Soho; 65 Commercial Street, Spitalfields
The jars of pickles and ferments bubbling away on shelves around the stylish dining rooms of Bubala’s two restaurants give an early indication of the kitchen teams’ passion for experimentation. Choose the ‘Bubala knows best’ menu for a curated selection of plant-based dishes like the umami-rich burnt butter humous and earthy oyster mushroom skewer glazed in tamari and coriander seed.
Tofu Vegan
105 Upper Street, Islington
With a name that’ll rattle the anti-woke brigade, this all-plant Chinese diner wears its veganuary credentials with pride. From the team behind Xi’an Impression up the road in Highbury, it’s no surprise the food is a riot of authentic flavours and textures, ranging from silky dim sum and spicey salads to deep-fried delights.
Tendril
5 Princes Street, Soho
Any vegans used to scanning a menu for the (vg) symbol will be pleased to see they flip things on their head here – using (nv) to indicate the few dishes that are ‘not vegan’. It’s all small plates, so visit with a few people and order as much from the menu as possible – you won’t want to have to decide between the leek fritters with curry leaf aioli and the celeriac terrine with zingy cherry harissa.
Apricity
68 Duke Street, Mayfair
Chantelle Nicholson’s successful follow-on from her much-loved Tredwells continues her commitment to running a socially conscious restaurant with a zero-waste approach that’s earned a Green Michelin Star. While her menu does feature meat and fish, plant-based dishes made with hyper-seasonal and foraged produce are the star of the show – this is veganuary fine dining for the future.
Alex Dalzell has written extensively about dining and interviewed some of the world’s top chefs in his role as Head of Content for Europe at Ten Lifestyle Group. Ten is the world-leading travel and lifestyle concierge service which helps 100,000s of members across the globe live life to the fullest. Ten also provide services to valuable customers of some of the world’s leading private banks and premium financial services.
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