Veganuary wine tips: The best plant-based pairings
A season of two halves, winter is first festive then frugal with many people spending January watching both their waistlines and pennies. The idea of Dry January makes me shudder to my core, but veganuary is quickly gaining in popularity, with more and more of us focusing on plant-based dining this month.
January is bleak enough without forgoing company. It is one of life’s great pleasures to enjoy good food and wine around the table with friends, but we do not often think about vegetables when it comes to wine pairing. I spoke to author and wine educator Wendy Narby and Bordeaux winemaker Sally Evans, founders of recipes site www.wineand2veg.com to get their advice on wine-pairing for veganuary.
When researching her book “The Drinking Woman’s Diet”, Narby wanted to focus on a healthy approach to wine and found that drinking with a full stomach of food was key. An advocate for the health benefits of cutting down on meat she teamed up with her friend Evans to explore the idea further.
Evans became vegetarian during lockdown, inspired by her son who was cooking all their meals, but as a Bordeaux winemaker she noticed everyone recommended pairing red wine with red meat. “When it comes to wine everyone starts out by asking if you are having fish or meat, but with the rise of vegetarianism – and veganuary – we need to talk more about wine and plant-based food, so I started putting a link on my bottle labels to my website with some recipe ideas”.
The most easy to pair vegetables are mushrooms, because of their earthy umami flavours often mirrored in wines, as well as aubergines: “think of an Italian parmigiana” adds Evans, who also recommends replacing the lamb in moussaka with slow cooked lentil, mushrooms and tomatoes. “It really all comes down to preparation” says Narby “you can match almost anything with a red if it has been grilled, to give it that smoky, toasty flavour, or use sauces, spices, herbs to create rich flavours”.
What about the trickier flavours though, like the bitterness found in asparagus or fennel? These would typically pair best with a white wine, Sauvignon Blanc for example is known to compliment asparagus and again it is about the preparation “you can grill or stew fennel to get rid of that bitterness” suggests Narby “but I think it is served best with a sweet white wine, not necessarily a dessert wine but something off-dry to balance it”.
Wineand2veg.com is seasonal and has just launched their winter recipes, designed to help readers along the road to plant-based discovery. When asked for their own favourites, Evans suggests her roasted medjool dates for a perfect appetiser, stuffed with goat’s cheese and topped with a combination of walnuts, orange zest and rosemary. A celebratory nibble like this is ideal with some fizz, such as a crémant, which would cut through and lift the sticky date and creamy cheese. Nardy recommends the chickpea curry which is “super easy and uses store cupboard staples” and would be delicious with a lighter, fruitier red like a young Merlot.
“People may be moving away from meat but we don’t want them to move away from wine,” says Evans. “It is important to focus on what we are consuming for our health, our wallets and for the planet, but equally we need to ensure that making these choices does not impact our ability to join together with others and enjoy special moments with friends and family.”
For those of you who are vegetable-curious and attempting Veganuary this year, I hope this helps you raise a glass of something delicious with your dinner.
Wines of the week – veganuary edition
Everflyht Brut NV
£32, Threshers
Bursting onto the English wine scene a couple of years ago, Everflyht continues to impress with their generous, complex sparkling wines. This is an ideal aperitif with its bright lemon and red apple tart notes and skilful effervescence.
Domaine Naudet Sancerre
£20.99, Waitrose
A beautifully classic Sancerre evoking fresh green grass and refined ripe citrus, underpinned by a cool, flinty minerality. Exclusive to Waitrose this supple, crisp white wine is perfect on its own or with goats’ cheese salads and tricky-to-pair asparagus.
Vincent Lacoste Dompter la Bête 2021
£17.45, Themodestmerchant.com
Now this is a fun one. An approachably youthful, Merlot-dominant Bordeaux by a family now in its seventh generation of winemakers. Certified organic and bursting with intense fruits, the label is an ode to Nono, their gardener for over 50 years.
Zeno Alcohol Liberated Rosé NV
£12, Threshers
I served this to a pregnant Sommelier over Christmas who said it was the best non-alcoholic wine she had tried. Accolade indeed! Freshly aromatic, pearly pink and with fine, elegant bubbles this hits the spot for those swerving alcohol.
H! Barcelona Alcohol Free Sparkling
£6.99, Laithwaites
Another excellent option for those on a detox right now. Floral and fruity, this is made from a typical Cava blend of Macabeo, Parallado and Xarel-lo and keeps it bright green apple and citrus freshness. Pairs well with seafood dishes.