Warm reception for London’s priciest restaurants despite fears of recession
A clutch of top-end London restaurants have enjoyed successful openings this summer, despite fears of a protracted economic downturn.
In July, against a backdrop of doleful news in the property and financial sectors, Ambassade de L’Ile, with Chef Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, opened its door to diners in francophone South Kensington, while the eponymous Helene Darroze at the Connaught started serving in Mayfair. A third, Andaman with Chef Dieter Mueller, launches 18 August at the renovated St James’s Hotel and Club in the heart of London’s hedge-fund district.
All feature respected Michelin starred chefs and luxury ingredients. Prices are among the highest in Britain, ranging from about £65 to £95 for basic prix-fixe at dinner, with a la carte main dishes topping £30.
Although the chefs and their backers are not complacent about the fiscal climate, they are cautiously optimistic. “Business has already exceeded expectations,” said Ansanay-Alex of Ambassade, where diners can sip watermelon gazpacho, with avocado puree and large Scottish langoustines for £22 or foie gras “royale”, made from foie gras, lobster, figs and harvest sauce.
Ansanay-Alex, who divides his time between Ambassade and its older sibling – L’Auberge de L’Ile in Lyons, France – planned the opening of the London restaurant for five years.