Welsh wine is no April Fools joke – and it’s delicious
Firstly, I promise this isn’t an April Fool. Welsh wine is a real thing.
Historically of course, they have always liked a drink. Welsh bards, poets and wordsmiths have dedicated their talent to the power and beauty of wine. As far back at the 6th century there are references to mead being drunk by warriors before battle, then in the 9th century a “bright wine” becomes the drink of choice for a fancy host. By the 15th century wine is being generously served to everyone at court according to Llywelyn Glyn Cothi, who enjoyed “mature wine, full of flame, in the court for all who came”.
Despite centuries of love for the beverage it has not, however, been traditionally home grown in the valleys of Wales itself. The wine-loving Romans did try planting some vines when they invaded but the Welsh climate was different to that of Italy and it failed to take hold. Until now.
Suddenly Wales is one of the fastest growing wine regions in the world with a 74 per cent increase in Welsh and English vineyards between 2017 and 2022. There are currently just shy of 40 vineyards across the country.
The oldest modern vineyard is Glyndwr, established in 1979 in the romantic Vale of Glamorgan their wines are available at Waitrose, including a particularly lovely sparkling rosé (£25). Just down the road is the UK’s first ever vineyard hotel, the Llanerch, with its award-winning restaurant serving local wines beside vineyard views.
White Castle are among the Welsh pioneers, having won multiple awards including gold medals for their red wines at the Decanter and Welsh Wine Awards. I was intrigued and headed to 67 Pall Mall for a Welsh Wine Tasting a couple of weeks ago to discover more for myself.
The first thing I noticed was the emphasis on organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming. Winemakers were eager to tell me about their work to limit pollution and pesticides, from incorporating animals into their vineyards to eradicate pests and spread immediate ‘fertiliser’, to putting nettles and dandelion heads in compost instead of using chemical sprays. Fiona Mounsey, owner of Velfrey Vineyard, told me how most vineyards in Wales are small and family run.
“Families have lived here for years and we’re all passionate about our little corner of Wales”. Velfrey is run by Fiona and her husband Andy with their son Ryan managing the vines and his wife Sophie heading on-site catering and social media.
They were also some of the most impressive wines I tried at the tasting, despite only releasing their first cuvées for sale a few years ago. Their sparkling wines were traditional method, like Champagne and crémant, but less customarily the main grape was Seyval Blanc.
This was another point of difference. Not a hugely known variety here, it seems Seyval Blanc is becoming the favoured grape of Wales. “It likes a nice long ripening period,” said Mounsey, “and in Pembrokeshire we get beautiful late summer weather, so we don’t harvest until late October or early November. This long ripening makes the wine lovely and complex.”
The Dell, who just won a Welsh Vineyard Award for their sparkling rosé of Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir, agree: “It’s fruit forward and fresh and it suits our land well as it likes a cooler climate and is naturally disease resistant. It’s been known as ‘save-all’ as it’s so often a guaranteed harvest”.
“We could have planted Chardonnay,” said a representative for Montgomery Vineyard, “but France already does that well. We need to make our own stamp on wine. Not copy another region”.
For fans of a fresh, fruity sparkling and environmentally aware winemakers who prioritise the planet, Wales is right on our doorstep and its worth trying. As the Welsh saying goes “wine and ale and song and laughter, in every tavern I was never old’ – let’s drink to that.
Wines of the week
Sam Plunkett Tait Hamilton Vineyard Shiraz 2022, Naked Wines £19.99 (Angel Price £14.99), nakedwines.co.uk
Sam Plunkett is regarded as one of the greatest living winemakers in Australia with nearly a thousand medals and trophies to his name. Having previously won Best Shiraz in Australia, here he is making this fantastic bottle for Naked Wines.
Big, bold and beautifully luxurious with layer upon layer of rich, red berried flavour, curls of dark chocolate and savoury spice. Magnificent.
Gutter & Stars ‘Star 69 Longplayer’ Chardonnay 2022, £35, gutterandstars.co.uk
There is a lot of charm to this small English producer, based in a windmill near Cambridge. This latest release tastes unlike anything I have tried from England before. Rich, bold and structured with heaps of pineapple and tropical fruits, caressed by vanilla and citrus.
A compelling, intriguing glass.
Cune Cava Brut, £15, Majestic
A lovely light gold in the glass, this winery was founded in 1879, but their sparkling is a relatively new addition. This classic cava brims with creamy, lively effervescence. Gentle notes of white peach flesh, ripe orchard apples, toast and hazelnut makes this a super choice for
a chilled aperitif.
Tesco Finest Chateau Abelyce Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2020, £18.50, Tesco
For Bordeaux lovers after a bit of a bargain this is a powerful, serious Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend that really delivers. The Tesco Finest range is getting increasingly interesting and here they have found a classic red wine which offers fine fruit, structured tannins and
a long finish.