Where to stay in Nice, France’s spectacular coastal city
Where to stay and what to do in Nice, France, which still offers decently high temperatures throughout November
WHERE TO STAY IN NICE
Brits decrying the heat will be pleased to hear that Nice is open all year round, not just in the summer. More good news: you should probably go in November. That way you’ll avoid the intensity of the thermostat as well as the Brits abroad. Reader, it is still in the mid-teens by next month, and yes, the beaches are still sandy, the bars still replete with French beer. As more Brits travel to conventionally summer destinations out of season, Nice, which has experienced issues with overtourism in its summer months, should be high on your list.
THE HOTEL
From the street the Mercure Nice Centre Notre-Dame doesn’t look like it’d house one of the city’s trendiest rooftop bars, and some of the most impressive city panoramas, but the best places don’t often give away their secrets. South London’s coolest rooftop bar is on top of an old car park, which itself is on top of an old fashioned cinema. But back to Nice, and the inside of the Mercure is nothing special: rooms are functional and a little on the small side, but book for the convenience of the central location and their crowning achievement, which is…
THE ROOFTOP
Sand, sea and mountaintops are all viewable from the Mercure’s rooftop – but they’re just the framing devices for the more immediate vistas of the historic centre. The Bella Ciela bar mixes good cocktails to be sunk outdoors on deckchairs or loungers, and there’s an upmarket sports bar atmosphere inside, where more locals than you’d think gather despite the hotel’s tourist-friendly feel. There is a decent rooftop pool from which to sink a cerveza or three, as well as a hot tub with more of those views. I spent the afternoon sunk into one of the loungers on the quieter balcony (there are two, depending on how social you want to be, both with equally good views).
WHAT TO DO IN NICE, FRANCE’S SPECTACULAR COASTAL CITY
We strolled through the commercial heart’s pedestrianised thoroughfares down to Rooftop Le Méridien, because one rooftop wasn’t enough. Offering al fresco or covered dining, depending on the season, the hotel and restaurant offers unparalleled views of the coastline. We ate some brilliant local day catch fish as the sun went down.
The next morning we followed the coastline east along the Promenade des Anglais (named after English aristocrats who commissioned it in the 19th century, it’s a confusing name for any Anglais visiting who’ve paid to feel as far away from Britain as possible) and past Pointe de Rauba-Capeu, with its manmade waterfall. The water feature looks better from the seafront than it does up close but is worth the climb up to anyway, if only for the adjoining cafe-with-views, where we plonked ourselves for a post-hike beer.
Back on ground level, we continued our wander round to Quartier du Port, where we had an excellent local pizza in Posto17, overlooking some very expensive boats. Also a must, a half day exploring the Vieux Nice, or Old Town, with its food and flower markets and local hole-in-wall places to stop for a drink and watch the city breathing. It’s all immensely walkable, which takes off a lot of the pressure.
VISITING NICE, FRANCE: NEED TO KNOW:
Rates at the Mercure Nice Centre Notre-Dame start from around £83 per night, to book go to all.accor.com. For more information on what to do in Nice go to explorenicecotedazur.com/en. British Airways fly to Nice direct from London Heathrow.
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