Why Simon Rogan’s Cumbria is the ultimate UK staycation
The ultimate UK staycation: Sophie Ibbotson swaps the fells for feasting in the Lake District
THE WEEKEND: The Cumbrian village of Cartmel has a remarkably strong claim to be the gastronomic capital of the northwest, and might just offer the perfect UK staycation. Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan has three phenomenal restaurants here, plus a shop and a farm; and the award-winning Harry’s Cafe at Yew Tree Barn, Cartmel Cheeses, and Heft, High Newton, are all within walking distance. By all means throw your hiking boots into your bag in case you feel the need to walk off an overly indulgent lunch, but make food not fitness the focus of this Lake District getaway.
THE LOCATION: Cartmel straddles the River Eea on the southern edge of the Lake District National Park, a couple of miles north of Grange-over-Sands and not far from Morecambe Bay. The village’s priory church was founded by William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke, in 1190, and its medieval buildings not only survived the dissolution of the monasteries but are still in use today. There are regular race days from May to the August Bank Holiday at Cartmel Racecourse, and some scenic but not overly strenuous walking routes in the Cartmel Valley.
THE FOOD: Rogan’s L’Enclume is the only restaurant outside of London and the southeast to have three Michelin stars. To get a dinner reservation you’ll need to book months in advance, or chance it by adding yourself to the waiting list for last-minute availability. If you are travelling at shorter notice, plan instead to dine at L’Enclume’s sister restaurant, Rogan & Co, which also has a Michelin star.
The perfect UK staycation? Three Michelin stars in the north
Rogan sources almost all of his ingredients for his restaurants locally. Many of these are produced on his own farm just outside Cartmel, known as Our Farm, and you can book a tour and meet the growers and chefs if you’re here between April and September. The set price menu (£79) changes seasonally, and every mouthful is a delight. We started with a trio of a truffle mushroom dumpling, parmesan sable with artichoke cream, and a salmon tartlet, followed by the terrine of old spot pork with caramelised potato. For main courses we chose the Dexter beef cheek with garlic and brassicas, and then the most succulent stuffed breast of St Brides Chicken with heritage carrots and hen of the woods. The meal was rounded off with a cucumber and apple refresher, and freshly churned vanilla ice cream and vanilla cheesecake finished with fragrant spiced pineapple and tagetes (marigolds).
THE STAY: There are 16 individually designed guest rooms and suites spread throughout Cartmel, so when you check in you immediately become part of the village’s community. Each room is named after a native plant and retains the original architectural features of the building in which it lies: in Juniper and Nasturtium you will sleep soundly beneath ancient wooden beams, and Pennywort and Oxalis are built into the eaves. Breakfast is served at Rogan & Co, which is only a few minutes’ walk away, wherever you stay.
As you would expect, breakfast is an experience in itself. It begins with a delicious whisky porridge glazed with demerara and served with compote prepared by Rogan & Co chefs using preserved fruits from Our Farm. Each breakfast course features the very best local ingredients, including freshly laid eggs collected from Our Farm, milk from Wraysholme Creamery, and freshly baked artisan sourdough breads with Winter Tarn butter, all accompanied by a selection of specially blended teas and coffees.
NEED TO KNOW: Book a UK staycation with Rogan & Co via their Stay and Dine package is available from Tue to Sat and starts from £375. It includes a five-course dinner, overnight accommodation, and breakfast.
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