Why The Gallivant is a wine-lover’s happy place
Oh, The Gallivant, how I love you. I would say “let me count the ways” but there would be too many for this column’s wordcount.
Despite my loving almost any excuse for a celebration, Valentines Day has not cut the proverbial mustard enough times and it has lost its lustre. Going out means sitting elbow to elbow with a sea of other couples desperately trying to make something sexy or romantic out of a subpar, overpriced set menu, the finale of which is a sad chocolate fondant in the shape of a heart.
Staying in means I will probably end up doing the laundry, as I am here anyway. Frankly. I am not fussed, but it seems the Significant Other is, and the Gallivant was exactly the answer we needed – because this is the most low-key romantic hotel in England.
Not far from Rye and across from the Camber Sands, The Gallivant cuts an unassuming figure. Low to the ground and surrounded by spiky green plants, it would not look out of place in the deserts of the American West. Yet, step through the doors and every detail is a delight and every desire already thought of. By the entrance were sun hats and beach towels, wellies and raincoats for guests to borrow whatever the weather.
The sun was shining but there was a chill in the air, so the fire was already lit in the main room with the glistening central bar. A book-lined snug to the side was set up with wooden board games and chess, and a couple sat contentedly reading. At the bar lolloped two enormous dogs, as canines are welcomed. We were shown where freshly baked cake would be served to guests at teatime – and later given the personalised itinerary for our stay.
One of the most charming things about The Gallivant is that they programme optional themed hours depending on the season. There can be oyster hour, sundowners on the sand dunes at sunset or – rather wonderfully – English wine hour. They have one of Britain’s most extensive lists and use the opportunity to select and highlight a local producer a day.
It was a wine to restore feeling to all extremities and voluptuously velvety enough to beckon us to our bedroom
Noting that during our stay at The Gallivant there was also a Raclette and Riesling hour, we planned our day accordingly and set off first for a bracing walk along the seashore. The sun shone bright, but the wind was bitter, and I soon regretted my lack of scarf. No matter how pristine the dunes, how blue the sky, how soothing the surf and how pretty the washed-up shells are – it is hard to take absolute pleasure in anything when you feel your ears are being sliced by razor blades.
Wimpishly, we turned back after half an hour, to find warmth and comfort in a bottle of Carmen Stevens Catoria Coastal Blend 2020 (Naked Wines, £23.99; Angel Price, £13.99). This Coast was undoubtably warmer and the South African sun-ripened fruit of this Bordeaux blend burst with robust flavour, deftly polished by the judicious use of oak.
It was a wine to restore feeling to all extremities and voluptuously velvety enough to beckon us to our bedroom.
The Gallivant rooms are cosy boltholes with a comfortable, book-lined bed, a vintage-style radio playing BBC Radio 3, a central rolltop bath (that can be screened should modesty wish) and back doors onto an outside table and wraparound gardens. Everything here says, “slow down, unwind, enjoy,” and we would have lingered longer but for the Raclette and Riesling calling. A gooey pile of stinky cheese, scraped onto toasted sourdough and a crisp glass of wine was an indulgent aperitif before dinner at Harry’s.
Housed in an airy room, hung with greenery and framed retro swimwear, chef Matthew Harris’s menu focuses on the simple flavours of freshly sourced produce, from salty breadcrumbed crab salad to the meaty leg of an unlucky local rabbit. Washed down with the second wine of Chateau Cantemarle, we were sleepily satisfied as we headed to bed, where a ‘sleep station’ tray awaited us. Even at near midnight, the thoughtful gestures continue.
The next morning, we bypassed the free yoga in favour of the Bloody Mary recovery station, which replaced the cognac station of the night before. This place soothes body and soul with its simplicity and luxury. As their slogan says, “Happiness is a Place”.
A Naked Pairing: Virgile Joly Bourret 2023 x a lovely, bubbly bath
Selecting a bathtime wine is a serious business. If you are not choosing bubbles for a bubble bath, then you need a crisp, saline white to cool and refresh you during your steamy immersion.
Terret Bourret is not a grape I know well but this bottle of Virgile Joly Bourret 2023 (Naked Wines, £13.99; Angel Price, £9.99) from Southern France tasted like the love child of a Riesling and an Albarino and was absolutely perfect with its crisp, classy, coolness.
An essence of sea breeze, balanced by silky light stone fruit and green apple notes – this is a bottle too easy to finish. Given the quality and price, I have a feeling this wine shall be gracing more baths in the future!
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