Why you’re drinking Port all wrong
It turns out I have been drinking port entirely wrong. For me, this heavy fortified wine has always been something for the winter. A small glass served at room temperature to pair with the Christmas stilton. If anywhere is going to school me on the “how tos” of port then Kopke, the world’s oldest port house, is probably best placed to do so.
Arriving at Kopke’s newly launched Tivoli hotel in pretty Porto, just twenty minutes from the airport, I was welcomed with a glass of chilled ruby red port. At this temperature the bright fruit came across as pristine, crystalline and the drink itself felt lighter and fresher. It was surprisingly good coming out of the 34 degree heat outside.
This is part of port’s revamp for the younger generation, with whom port has been falling out of favour. Historically their grandparents drank ruby and tawny ports at room temperature but now both are served cold from the fridge or in an ice bucket – and it’s undeniably more enjoyable.
Over a port tasting at the hotel’s slick modern wine bar, I learn that the ruby style is more popular in the UK. This is bright red and vibrantly fruity. If the bottle says ‘reserve’ it is of slightly higher quality and complexity and if it says ‘L.B.V’ or late bottle vintage it means the grapes have come from one year and usually been aged for between four and six years in barrel. Kopke tends to produce a slightly drier style, and this reminds me of a rich Amarone red wine. Our sommelier suggests drinking an L.B.V with a dry aged steak. “Port isn’t just for cheese and dessert”.
Tawny ports have been aged in smaller wooden barrels where the oxygen contact turns them brown and develops more caramelised, nutty notes. They tend to be lighter with ‘reserve’ and ‘colheita’ being aged at least seven years with ‘colheita’ also meaning a single vintage – which is more prestigious. The Kopke Tawny Port Colheita 2005 (£37 Waitrose) is a fabulous example of candied peel and spice – a heavenly pairing for a Portuguese pastel de nata.
If a bottle says “10 years” or “40 years” on it, that’s the average age of the wines in the bottle blend, but some may be less or more. It’s a bit of a mystery but overall, the older the average the more developed and complex the port.
The new Tivoli Kopke hotel lives and breathes port and Porto’s history. Sitting on the wine side of the river, among the historical port houses, around 2.7million litres of port are stored here in their huge barrel room event spaces. Almost brutalist in design, the interior’s dark metal and wood mirrors the materials of a winery. Escaping the brilliant heat outside, long, darkly cool corridors are dotted with colourful (often bizarre) modern art and open up into glass walled rooms that make the most of the hotel’s spectacular views.
The areas are all wine-themed, like the Port & Tonic bar next to the outdoor pool, with views out over the Douro River, Luis I Bridge and the patchwork of orange-tiled rooftops on the bank beyond. The indoor spa pool, bookable by the hour to ensure a maximum of eight users a time, gym and sauna all emphasise the view and bedrooms open to small private terraces where port can be sipped overlooking the river to a welcome breeze and the sound of church bells.
Porto is small and walkable, despite being very hilly, so the location is perfect to explore the city – even if my explorations were mainly drinks based. The Vinum restaurant at the Graham’s Port Cave deserves honourable mention for its spectacular view taking in both riverbanks, the bridge and the unique circular Serra do Pilar Monastery. A good spot to enjoy the white port and tonic which is offered almost religiously before a meal. So popular is it that Graham’s has designed its Graham’s Blend No. 5 (£28.50 Waitrose) specifically for tonic in what is the Portuguese equivalent of a Brit’s classic G&T. Best served with a slice of lemon and a sprig of rosemary or mint, this is fruity, refreshing and further proof that Port isn’t just for Christmas.
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Porto Pairing
Matriarca, on Porto’s historic Carlos Alberto Square, calls itself “a home for wine lovers”. Above their beautiful wooden saloon style wine bar, the enchanting duck-egg blue and white dining room is like stepping into a period drama. Comfortable yet elegant, refined yet relaxed and with a sensational wine list too.
Portugal’s Douro region is known for its structured, sumptuous reds and a Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca blend is brilliant with red meat like a beef wellington. The grip and structure of Symington’s Quinta do Vesuvio (£48.61, portugalvineyards.com) cuts through the fat of meat and pastry as the red fruit compliments the earthy umami of the mushroom paté.
This rich wine meets the dish head on with depth of flavour and full-bodied heady appeal.
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Wine recommendations
Arnaud Lambert ‘David’ Saumur-Brézé – £39 Berry Bros & Rudd
A pleasingly supple Chenin Blanc from the Loire. 60-year-old vines and twelve months in barrel add concentration, roundness and complexity. Delicate, white-fleshed stone fruits and a slick, citrus crispness means this would suit baked white fish or roasted white meats well.
Gusbourne Commanders Blanc de Blancs Brut 2019 – £95 gusbourne.com
The UK had a record-breaking year at the Decanter Awards, taking home more medals than ever – particularly for our sparkling. This superb bottle by Gusbourne won a gold medal. No surprise given its elegance, complex nuanced layers and long finish that resonates across the palate.
Lyme Bay Shoreline – £18.50 Waitrose
Lyme Bay’s wines are a thing of beauty, and the Shoreline is a blend of eight zippy, zesty, aromatic grapes from Essex’s acclaimed Crouch Valley. Balanced between fresh citrus and bright tropical fruits this is a lithe white wine for any Sauvignon Blanc or English Bacchus lovers.