Firebird Soho has some of the best service in the capital – and great wine too November 2, 2022 Unassumingly nestled on a bustling Soho street, Firebird greets you as a cool oasis of relaxed good taste. Almost all of its dishes, as the name implies, have been licked by flame. The true charm of this place lies in the warmth and attentiveness of the staff, who carry their impeccable knowledge with a casual [...]
Ormer Mayfair by Sofian Msetfi is worth the hype October 19, 2022 When the AA Hospitality Awards bestow four AA Rosettes on a restaurant for the first time, it is probably worth taking notice. Especially when it is only one of three awarded the honour in London and the chef, Sofian Msetfi, is only 30. Welcome to Ormer. A stone’s throw from Green Park, this old-school, art-deco beauty [...]
Old vines: Why you should care October 19, 2022 You may have seen the term “old vine” or “vieille vignes” on your wine label and wondered why it matters. Though there’s no legal definition, it usually means the vines are older than 25 years, but preferably over 50 or even 100. These wines are rarer because the older a vine gets, the less fruit [...]
Why it’s time to invest in port, and drink plenty too October 6, 2022 There has always been a special relationship between Portugal and Great Britain. Indeed, the Portuguese government declared three days of national mourning to honour the passing of her Majesty, the Queen. Equally, there’s something quintessentially British about serving a decanter of port at the end of a dinner party, passed around to one’s left of [...]
M Canary Wharf is both fun and elegant September 26, 2022 M restaurant has launched its newest incarnation in increasingly buzzy Canary Wharf, making the most of all the sky, steel and views over the water with floor to ceiling windows showcasing aspects and angles of the London skyline I had never seen before. Lights hang like flocks of seagulls above booths and tables designed to [...]
Alsace wines have bite as well as bark September 25, 2022 When I began to learn about wine in my early 20s, Alsace was a region I was drawn to. I loved the opulent richness of the wines, from the semi-sweet floral Gewurztraminer and Muscat to the broad strokes of the rounded Pinot Gris and complexity of the Rieslings. The good ones were balanced by a [...]
We try a Cruffin at the beautiful Richoux on Piccadilly August 26, 2022 If you live for the weekends, then start them off the right way with breakfast at the classically beautiful Richoux on Piccadilly. This is a place that caters for your hangover with some seriously indulgent comfort food, then gets the party started again with a selection of excellent hair-of-the-dog breakfast cocktails. Please do not visit [...]
Moscato d’Asti: Why this sparkling wine is pure joy in a glass August 25, 2022 In my last column’s wine recommendations, I referred to Moscato d’Asti as the happiest wine. For me, it is as joyful a glass as you could hope to have, so it surprises me that more people do not indulge in it more often. Though from the same region, around the town of Asti, it should [...]
Top summer wines to drink in the blazing sun August 10, 2022 August is here, the month of festival burgers, picnic sausages and garden party grilling. Though you may be used to a cold beer in the sun, if you want to elevate that hotdog with a nice glass, here are the summer wines – and top tips about drinking in the hot weather – to keep [...]
Barrafina Borough Market is a true London gem August 10, 2022 It is not often that my friend and I are totally silenced by food but this happened not once but three times, followed by reverent murmured “oh my gods” as we each tried to get more of said dish onto our plates. It cements the new Barrafina Borough Market as one of the best meals [...]