Mix it up: Sip cocktails with an older, wiser crowd at The Goring Hotel November 17, 2015 It must be a sign of age but I'm increasingly uneasy hanging around youngsters on a night out. It's probably because I've been there, done that and made the same "mistakes" already. They were awful the first time so I’d would rather not relive them (not even vicariously). Perhaps that’s why I found myself propped [...]
Lessons in wine: Tis the season to get tipsy on our top Christmas picks November 17, 2015 Christmas is coming, the geese are getting fat and it is time to start planning Christmas lunch. While the true meaning of Christmas is peace and goodwill to all, a delicious lunch and good wine comes in a strong second. Sometimes the only way to get through TV re-runs, that protracted and competitive game of [...]
The Burgundy Puzzle: a frustrating wine that can astonish or appall, here’s how to get it right November 13, 2015 The other day I was invited to a friend’s birthday party where the wine was given star billing. It was a Santenay 2012 and we were told it was “amazing”. I was bitterly disappointed: it was green and desperately thin, like over-diluted Ribena without the vitamin C. And probably cost a fortune. It put me [...]
South Carolina, the home of barbecue, is redefining itself with the help of pulled pork November 13, 2015 London has a growing fascination with the foods of the American South. In recent years we’ve seen an explosion of Blues kitchens, artisanal fried chicken joints and barbecue boutiques. It’s like restaurateurs made a collective decision some time around 2010 that any new restaurant, anywhere in the city, must offer piles of sweet, tangy pulled [...]
Turkish Delight: a culinary journey through one of the world’s most diverse nations November 13, 2015 When most people think of Turkish food, they imagine kebabs and Turkish delight. In reality the food of this vast nation is among the most vibrant and diverse in the world, drawing influences from the olive-scented villages on the Aegean coast to the dusty towns near its border with Syria. The epic landscape – the [...]
Lessons in wine: To decant or not to decant, that is the question November 11, 2015 A decanter is a vessel to pour wine into; these are almost always glass or crystal and decanters come in wonderful shapes and sizes. Deciding whether to decant, or how long to decant for is a difficult question, even for the most fervent wine enthusiast. So here are some thoughts which might help you decide. [...]
Sexy Fish restaurant review: Richard Caring’s seafood menu is all about that bass November 10, 2015 Berkeley Square House, W1J 6BR FOOD ★★★★☆ VALUE ★★★☆☆ ATMOSPHERE ★★☆☆☆ Cost for two with booze: £180 Sexy Fish. Sexy Fish. Sexy Fish. Wherever you put the emphasis on Richard Caring’s new Mayfair restaurant it sounds terrible. I suspect this might be the point: it’s wilfully crass, intentionally boorish, purposefully provocative. It’s flippant but [...]
Lessons in wine: Why Piedmont is a unique and wonderful region November 6, 2015 Piedmont translates as “foot of the mountains”, with the Alps to the North and West of the region. Along with Tuscany it is Italy’s most important winemaking region. In this region south of Turin we find the famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. These are made from the same grape, Nebbiolo, which gets its name from [...]
Smith & Wollensky is the latest of the upmarket American steakhouses to cross the Atlantic November 4, 2015 WHAT? Renowned for its USDA Prime slabs of cow, Smith & Wollensky is the latest of the upmarket steakhouses to find its way across the Atlantic. WHERE? A ground floor and basement inside the historic Adelphi building, this spot looks for all the world as if a small chunk of 1930s New York has been [...]
Hoppers, Gymkhana’s casual sibling, lives up to the family name November 4, 2015 Sometimes I want to sit down in a restaurant, eat and be gone. Sometimes I want to move in, stay for a while, invite friends, meet the restaurant’s parents, marry the place and have a baby. If I were to marry a restaurant, though, a more sensible betrothal would be to one of Hoppers’ siblings [...]