The sustainable food argument is flawed – we just need more variety February 5, 2013 Head chef, Paternoster Chop House The recent news that the Marine Conservation Society has removed mackerel and gurnard from its list of “sustainable” fish is an ironic sign of the times. Responsible diners avoid some foods in a bid to protect a species, only to find that everyone else has done the same and now [...]
Celebrate Chinese new year in real style February 5, 2013 1. HKK HKK is the ultimate destination for Chinese aficionados. The restaurant, which is one of the most recent openings of the Hakkasan group, is already gaining a reputation for offering some of the best Chinese food in the City. Michelin-starred chef Tong Chee Hwee has created an impressive eight- and 15-course banqueting menu that’s [...]
Chablis is one of the toughest wines to get right – choose wisely February 5, 2013 Chablis is a pretty but inconsequential looking town just over 100km north of Burgundy. There are none of the great chateaux or domaines of Bordeaux or Burgundy here. Spend half an hour loitering in the town square and it is hard to believe this is the epicentre of one of the world’s most famous wine [...]
From January mocktails to a real Bloody Mary February 5, 2013 Morning Wire’s cocktail expert Alcohol’s value goes beyond its simple price-tag. Over the Christmas period it was no doubt used by plenty to ease family tensions, as well as to smooth the passage from 2012 into 2013. Alcohol is so ingrained within our social experiences that human guinea pigs exhibit the effects of drunkenness, even [...]
Bread as a matter of course January 21, 2013 RESTAURANT GAIL’S KITCHEN 11-13 Bayley Street, Bedford Square, WC1B 3HD Tel: 020 7323 9694 FOOD *** SERVICE **** ATMOSPHERE **** Cost for two with wine: £65 GAIL’S Bakery, the well-known artisan chain, is the brainchild of Tom Molnar and Ran Avidan. Their focus has always been on producing traditional handmade-quality bread and this mantra has [...]
Coya: the last word in Peruvian cuisine December 16, 2012 RESTAURANT COYA 118 Piccadilly, Mayfair, W1J 7NW Tel: 020 7042 7118 FOOD **** VALUE *** ATMOSPHERE *** Cost for two people with wine: £120 COYA WAS easily one of the most talked about openings this autumn. Created by Arun Waney, the man behind La Petite Maison and the uber successful Knightsbridge eatery Zuma, the restaurant [...]
Brindisa’s fourth outlet does tapas in a big way. Literally. December 16, 2012 RESTAURANT TRAMONTANA 152 Curtain Road, EC2A 3AT Tel: 020 7749 9961 FOOD **** VALUE *** ATMOSPHERE *** Cost for two people without wine: £70 THERE WAS a time, believe it or not, when there was not a hip new tapas bar on every street in central London. A time before the roast courgette flowers and [...]
1776 is old-fashioned City and it’s all the better for it December 3, 2012 RESTAURANT 1776 1 Lombard Street, EC3V 9AA Tel: 020 7929 6611 FOOD **** VALUE *** ATMOSPHERE *** Cost per person without wine: £55 ONE LOMBARD Street is one of those archetypal City restaurants – like the Mercer – that you go because you work in the City and, you know, that’s just what you do. [...]
As investors continue to struggle for returns, is purchasing fine art a sensible alternative? June 21, 2012 YES Philip Mould There is a difference between investment and speculation in art. Speculation is about the hunt for the next Damien Hirst. It involves looking into the shop window – meeting dealers and attending sales to find an artist that will, with luck, excel in the next generation, and for which you are now [...]
Hirst’s Tate retrospective is brash, crass and completely compelling April 12, 2012 Damien Hirst | Tate Modern | ★★★★☆ The killer killed. The inevitability and unfathomability of death. Death, death, death. Spot, spot, death, spot, death. You know what you get with Hirst. His pickled shark has become shorthand not just for his body of work but for a generation of modern art, as have his ubiquitous [...]