The future of the Swiss Alps? A ski holiday in Andermatt
In the social hierarchy of Swiss Alps ski resorts, Andermatt has long sat in the shadow of its counterparts, but thanks to a raft of foreign investment in recent years, the former garrison town’s star is on the ascendancy.
For now, at least, the ski area of Andermatt-Sedrun is regarded as fairly snow sure, usually covered with powder until late spring, and the recent purchase of a 55 per cent majority stake by leading US mountain resort company Vail Resorts only serves to reinforce that it’s here to stay.
Throughout history, Andermatt’s fortunes have fluctuated. A popular spa town in the late 19th century thanks to the opening of the nearby St Gotthard Pass bringing in plentiful visitors, the tables turned when the St Gotthard railway tunnel opened in 1881, totally bypassing the town and reversing its fortunes.
By the 1930s, tourism income had declined to the extent that many of the hotels that epitomised its former glory had closed, later being converted into apartments, only to be abandoned and demolished by the 1990s.
Andermatt is hoping to turn the Swiss Alps into a year-round destination
But the village and its surrounding area has drawn the interest of foreign investors; after one visit in 2005, billionaire Samih Sawiris spotted Andermatt’s potential and set about revitalising the village, with a massive regeneration project, which is still underway. The goal is to turn Andermatt into a year-round destination, bringing in jobs and developing outdoor activities.
The destination is already seeing considerable expansion, as the new Andermatt Reuss village, home to apartment buildings, hotels, shops and restaurants, continues to grow. The latest addition this month is the fifth iteration of Igniv, the restaurant from Michelin-starred Swiss chef Andreas Caminada which already has outposts in Bad Ragaz, St Moritz, Zürich and Bangkok.
By the end of 2023, CHF1.55 billion had already been invested, including CHF130 million for connecting and upgrading the SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun. The first opening in Andermatt’s new chapter celebrated its 10th anniversary last year and still retains its crown as the best address in town. The Chedi Andermatt (rooms from £475 per night, thechediandermatt.com), home to more fireplaces than rooms — 206 to be precise — is the work of renowned Belgian architect Jean-Michel Gathy and the five star deluxe has won accolades across the globe.
With 119 rooms and suites alongside private residences, its one of the plushest places to stay in the Swiss Alps. Its “Alpine meets Asian” style blends traditional materials – warm woods, natural stone and leather – to create a stylish, intimate space despite its size.
Gastronomy takes centre stage; The Japanese may boast two Michelin stars – and its sister restaurant at the top of nearby Gütsch mountain another – but it’s the 5.5 metre high cheese tower at the centre of its main restaurant that’s the star of the show, not to mention its frommeliers, who can put together a custom spread for you from its 40 different fromages. A wine and cigar library is home to 5,700 bottles and 1,000 cigars, the largest collection in any hotel worldwide.
The Chedi Andermatt sits just minutes away from the lifts, and while it may not quite be ski-in ski-out, the ski butler service will look after your kit and ensure you’re prepped and ready for a day on the slopes, no doubt followed by some down time in the deliciously spacious spa with its iconic glass ceiling.
Andermatt-Sedrun’s mountains offer some of the best skiing in the Swiss Alps, with 180km of perfectly groomed pistes and Gemstock offering one of the best off-piste areas in the world, starting at 2,961m with descents of 1,500m drops in elevation that aren’t for the faint-hearted. Some 460,000 skiers descend on the area each season – vastly boosting Andermatt’s mere 1,600 population – and thanks to investment from Vail Resorts, it now sits under the Epic Pass, giving holders access to six different ski areas in the Alps and Dolomites including Andermatt, Crans-Montana, Verbier4Vallées and Les 3 Vallées.
Despite three million pass holders, mostly in the US, Andermatt isn’t yet advertised on the other side of the pond as it doesn’t have the infrastructure and beds to support that influx of skiers.
That is set to change over the next decade as Sawiris’ ambitious redevelopment continues; currently it’s not yet half complete.
Chatting to my ski guide, born and raised in Andermatt and working as an instructor in the Swiss Alps for the last 20 years, he confessed that “ultimately it’s a good thing because it’s saved my dying town, but there’s very little mid-range accommodation and it’s hard for locals to find affordable homes.” Just 25 years ago property prices were around CHF9,000 per metre squared, now they top around CHF20,000.
The heart of the old village remains unchanged, with traditional guest houses, restaurants and a smattering of shops, but the new Andermatt Reuss is bringing four further hotels; the next opening in 2026, and around 180 apartments are currently being built.
As a destination, Andermatt is also gorgeous in the summer and arguably even better in the autumn, when Morning Wire’s Deputy Life&Style Editor touched down to drive an Aston Martin around Andermatt’s mountain passes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Goldfinger, filmed near the village.
Usually it’s not possible for foreign residents to buy property in the Swiss Alps, or in Switzerland whatsoever, but the canton of Uri has an exception, meaning until 2040 it’s fair game for foreign investors, though you won’t get much change from £1.5 million if you’re after a one bed.
Some dissenting voices argue the development could permanently change the feel of the historic village, and there’s a fear an influx of summer home buyers will leave properties vacant, but 96 per cent of Andermatt’s residents voted for the redevelopment masterplan. They were possibly swayed by the offer of free holidays at Sawiris’ first redevelopment project, the Egyptian resort of El Gouna. Nevertheless, despite initial apprehension, the general consensus is that he’s delivered on his promise and done a lot of good for the area; the difference compared to 30 years ago is obvious to those who have been here throughout.
With such a planned increase in beds, it’s natural to wonder, what will become of the pistes? While Vail has already started investing in the infrastructure, including the much-needed renewal of some of the area’s 33 ski lifts, it remains to be seen whether Andermatt will be able to handle the inevitable influx of visitors once Epic Pass holders get wind of this quaint Swiss ski town.
Visit Andermatt in the Swiss Alps yourself
A Swiss Travel Pass (prices start at £229 for three days) covers unlimited train travel with Switzerland; switzerland.com/travel). Go to andermatt.swiss for more information.