London is the best food city in the world – here are 3 reasons why
A month of Michelin madness in the UK draws to a close. Among the many accolades gifted, my personal highlights were seeing Row on 5’s executive chef Spencer Metzger receive a second star and Gordon Ramsay High joining Craig Johnson’s Angler to be the second restaurant with a star in the Square Mile.
The Evolv Collection, of which I am chief executive, was also in a star fuelled frenzy throughout February as we celebrated Angler’s achievement in maintaining a star for 13 consecutive years, and saw two star chef Pierre Minotti join us to re-launch Orrery in Marylebone… And our appointment of Miller Prada, who achieved his own star in 2025, as a group culinary consultant.
London has a magnificent 88 Michelin starred restaurants, with the most diverse cuisine of any city. It is, quite simply, the finest food destination in the world.
FROG BY ADAM HANDLING
Frog opened in late 2016 and has enjoyed a Michelin star since 2022. I dined there last week with Marcel Khan, an inspirational restaurateur veteran with whom I have visited restaurants in San Sebastian, Copenhagen, Amsterdam and New York, all in the name of research.
The glamourous Frog is overseen by George Hersey, one of the most joyful men in hospitality, exuding passion and pride in the offering with a quiet modesty. The dining room, meanwhile, is understated only in layout (eight tables), with unapologetic touches of luxury all around. Irreverent art work dons the walls while embossed, pink velvet chairs keep you upright and honest (important when you’re about to consume eight courses of gourmet glamour).
We went with the tasting menu (£199), which kickstarted with amuse bouches representing a playground of flavours. Sumptuous snacks followed, including The Chicken and the Egg, where crispy skin balances beautifully against parmesan foam and a truffle custard. A cucumber tea/gazpacho refreshed pallets perfectly ahead of Cornish seabream, which was garnished by a rose of wafer-thin apple and tomato jelly.
The hero dish for me was lobster (aged in Wagyu fat) served with ‘homemade’ caviar, enhanced by a hint of kimchi and a bottle of Domaine JA Ferret Premier Cru Pouilly Fuisse (£285). Marcel, meanwhile, waxed lyrical about the red mullet, saffron and English nduja. A few hours later we both signed off with a black forest gateau, which was reimagined beyond imagination.
When I opened Gaucho in Covent Garden in 2023, I’d occasionally head downstairs to the Eve Bar in the basement of The Frog for creative cocktails and a debrief with the team. It was a gem then and it continues to be a gem today.
AGORA
The little sister restaurant of Michelin starred OMA, Agora is a brand that fits a younger demographic perfectly. The Borough Market restaurant doesn’t take bookings, but as you queue (which the youth of today seem happy to do), one can watch chefs through the window, working the rotisserie and enjoy the music as it pumps out onto the street.
Kick off with the fruit forward cocktail list: the lemongrass paloma and plum mezcalita, are both magnificent accompaniments to fresh flatbreads from the showpiece wood burning oven, which are served with Greek spiced spreads.
The wine list consists of eleven options poured by tap into pewter pots. They were all a little too natural for my liking, but this is the wine that people who queue for restaurants enjoy. The staff are also a brilliant collection of people, happy to talk about books, theatre and various social activities, even at the expense of table maintenance or guest needs. As I grumble, my wife tells me I sound old and that it’s all part of the charm.
The food is, thankfully, very good: the lamb adana is piquant and perfectly balanced by rich Greek yogurt. The Greek salad is on point (as it should be) and the pork and mushroom skewers are sensational to finish. I suspect OMA is more my cup of tea, a bit more grown up, but Agora’s cocktails and cuisine are faultless. But make sure you arrive early to avoid the queues and swerve the orange wine.
COQ D’ARGENT
Finally a mention of and sibling to the outstanding Michelin starred Angler, Coq d’Argent. The aforementioned chef Prada Miller and I visited for lunch last week and were reminded of the quality of Sir Terence Conran’s iconic Square Mile hangout.
With both wines and food inspirations born in Burgundy, The Coq remains one of the finest dining experiences in the capital. Regardless of whether you’re in financial services or not, it’s a banker. Begin with a bottle of Burgundy (of course): a cheeky Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru by Gerard Thomas (£360) is remarkable, as is the magnificent Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Vielles Vignes’ Maison Roche de Bellene, a wine of the late, great Nicolas Potel (£170): exceptional in flavour and value.
Executive chef Damien Rigollet and his team are executing culinary excellence here: the tarte au crabe, truffled egg parfait and terrine de lapin all bring earthy flavours and lift them through clever use of complimentary ingredients. For mains, the chou-fleur is one of the finest vegetarian dishes I’ve ever come across, while the quality of the cote de veau makes for perfect spring eating. Alternatively, on another rainy day, go with the coq au vin and finish with the epic tarte tatin. Then it’s time to roll like the Michelin Man, back to the office for a power nap, as all masters of the universe should.