Now is the perfect time to visit Tbilisi Georgia – here’s what to see and where to stay
A destination hotel occupying a stately Brutalist building is one of a few things making Tbilisi Georgia unmissable, says Kamila Erkaboyeva
There’s long been a whisper on the street that Tbilisi is Europe’s coolest capital, but without direct flights from the UK, it’s been out of reach for a long weekend.
Thankfully, British Airways launched a new London Heathrow-Tbilisi route earlier this year, and with the summer opening of The Telegraph — the re-imagined Brutalist masterpiece which is the city’s swankiest luxury hotel — it’s time to fly out and party in the cultural and gastronomic heart of the Caucasus.
What to do in Tbilisi
At 1,500 years old, Tbilisi wears its age remarkably lightly. The pedestrian-friendly Old City is a maze of orthodox churches, medieval baths, and pretty houses with colourfully painted balconies, under which cafe tables spill out onto the street. It might have been custom-made for a flâneur, but every so often you’ll want to stop your wanderings to experience something more deeply: a production of The Battle of Stalingrad at the Gabriadze Puppet Theatre, a scalding dip in a sulphur bath in Abanotubani, or a glass of qvevri wine representing Georgia’s eight millennia of winemaking heritage.
Once you are ready for something a little less frenetic, take the cable car from the riverside up to the Narikala Fortress. It is an easy walk along the ridge to the 20m-high Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgians) statue which stands guard over Tbilisi. She has in her right hand a sword to protect her children from invaders, but in her left hand is a bowl of wine, ready to welcome guests.
Take some panoramic shots of the city — you won’t find a better viewpoint than this — and then continue to Tbilisi Botanic Garden, an expansive and densely planted site in the gorges behind Kartlis Deda. There are several waterfalls within the gardens, which make for idyllic picnic spots.
One evening, treat yourself to a live performance. Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre (opera.ge) was founded in 1851 and occupies a magnificent Moorish Revival building with opulent interiors. The ballet and opera companies include both Georgian and international artists, and they perform works from around the world.
Unlike in London or Paris, tickets won’t break the bank: they start from GEL 20 (around £5.50), a legacy of the Soviet belief that even high culture should be accessible to all.
Also well worth a trip is a visit to Mtatsminda Park, a Soviet-era gardens and fairground set atop a craggy hill accessed by a funicular railway. At the top you’ll find a load of craggy old amusement park relics, some of which appear to be leaning over the sheer cliff.
Where to stay in Tbilisi
Few hotels manage to embody the soul of a city as powerfully as The Telegraph (telegraphhotel.com; rooms from €270 per night including breakfast) in Tbilisi. Rising from the shell of the city’s former post and telegraph office, this landmark has been reimagined as a cultural powerhouse. Internationally acclaimed design duo Neri&Hu have fused the building’s Brutalist structure with soft, elegant details, creating a property which feels simultaneously modern and steeped in history.
Standing proudly on Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi’s grandest boulevard, the hotel occupies a prime position at the intersection of heritage and cosmopolitan energy. It is also the first member of The Leading Hotels of the World in the Caucasus — a milestone for Georgia’s hospitality scene.
But The Telegraph is more than bricks, mortar, and five-star polish. Its walls hum with creativity, its public spaces are alive with music and conversation, and its atmosphere attracts the kind of travellers who see a hotel not just as accommodation but as an experience in its own right.
Where to eat
Tbilisi is rapidly gaining recognition as a food capital, and The Telegraph is at the forefront of this movement. With seven restaurants and bars, each with its own distinct identity, the hotel is a gastronomic playground.
Executive Chef Irakli Asatiani, the youngest in Georgia to hold the role, leads with innovation and flair. Among the standout restaurants is Laan Thai, where Bangkok-born chef Rose Chalalai Singh serves bold Thai flavours infused with Parisian finesse, all grounded in Georgian produce. Signature dishes arrive steaming in clay pots or lightly smoked over charcoal, offering a playful yet authentic experience.
Going out
Tbilisi is known for its energetic party scene, and if you stay at The Telegraph, you don’t need to go far to go out: crowning the hotel is the Rolling Stone Rooftop — the world’s first bar by the legendary music magazine. With sweeping views, DJ sets, and cocktails inspired by rock ’n’ roll, it’s a destination in itself.
Downstairs, Tatuza Jazz Bar revives Georgia’s jazz scene with a laidback atmosphere, sultry lighting, and world-class musicianship. More than a music venue, it captures the spirit of Tbilisi’s cultural renaissance. Order a glass of amber wine, settle into a velvet banquette, and let the rhythms carry you into the night. It’s an experience as essential as any landmark tour.
Book a trip to Tbilisi Georgia yourself
British Airways (britishairways.com) flies direct from London Heathrow to Tbilisi four times a week from £245 return. British passport holders can visit Georgia without a visa.