Richard Corrigan on the rise and rise of Irish hospitality

The past 10 years have been marvellous for changing the profile of Irish food and drink in London. Gone are the days of murky Irish pubs and in their place we’re seeing the rise of a fantastic set of chefs and restaurateurs bringing some of the finest culinary skill to the capital. 

From one of the city’s best landlords, Oisín Rogers, who runs the Guinea Grill in Mayfair to East London rooftops and terraces where the likes of Patrick Powell at Allegra and Ciarán Smith at Homeboy turn out the most exquisite food alongside some thoroughly decent drinks. 

Then there’s Clare Smyth at Core who has taken Irish cooking straight to the top, being the first female chef to win 3 Michelin stars. Then there’s Anna Haugh at Myrtle, who showcases all those influences that Irish cooking can have on a modern European plate. Robin Gill has done a lot for Irish food and drink too – if it’s Carlingford oysters and a properly poured pint of Guinness you’re after, head to his Vauxhall restaurant Darby’s. 

But it’s the generosity of these people, both in person and on the palate, that has really brought the Irish food, drink and hospitality to popularity in London. 

The food is hearty and warm, it is a celebration of flavour that doesn’t leave people reaching for the microscope. You won’t find chefs with tweezers at Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, let me tell you. We open a bottle on St Patrick’s Day to share it. We slow cook an Irish beef stew. We revel in the time that food and drink gives us. 

As my favourite poet Donnelly said, we sit down to eat and drink and ‘take time to throw away the clocks.’ So, with the past two years behind us (thank goodness), what better time than St Patrick’s Day to raise a glass – be it Redbreast Irish Whiskey or even a cup of Barry’s Tea – to renewed friendships and remembering the present. Sláinte!