The best places to drink Portuguese wine in London right now
Portuguese wine has flown relatively under the radar when compared to its neighbours France, Italy and Spain. “I’m bewildered when I visit a restaurant and there’s nothing from Portugal,” says Max Graham, founder of Bar Douro.
“It offers such diversity – from mountains to the Atlantic coast and volcanic islands, there are over 250 native grape varieties. Portugal has a reputation for being good value but it has far more than that to offer. Finally that perceived glass ceiling is being broken by pioneering winemakers.”
I have noticed the rise of fine Portuguese wines in London over the last few years but you do sometimes have to hunt to track them down. Here are my top two places to find them right now.
Bar Douro – London Bridge & The City
Though it feels like stepping into a charming local ‘tasca’, these restaurants actually contain the largest selection of Portuguese wines in the UK – and the variety is vast. The uniquely salty, smoky, premium wines of the Azores islands are offered next to traditional (and now-trendy) palhete wines, where red and white grapes are fermented together to create light, chillable reds.
The Churchill Estate Grafite Branco is a brilliant choice to start a meal, with its crisp mineral texture, notes of pencil shavings and ripe lemon making it a fantastic accompaniment for plump, grilled garlic prawns.
There are also crowd-pleasing Albarinos, spritzy Vinho Verdes and a weekly changing specials board that Graham is eager for customers to discover. The dishes here are authentic, relaxed and made to be shared. Fluffy, smoky sausage croquettes, cod fritters, a succulent pork neck in Bifana sauce. The small plates add up and soon you will be full to the brim and feeling like you have been transported to the Douro valley itself.
JOIA – Battersea Power Station
On the opposite end of the Portuguese dining spectrum is rooftop restaurant JOIA, overlooking the iconic Battersea Power Station, bustling trainlines and the River Thames. With a menu created by two Michelin-starred chef Henrique Sá Pessoa and a room of pastel colours and plush furnishings, this is a modern bougie take on the Portuguese classics.
A glass of sparkling Quinta das Bágeiras rosé is a pleasure with the pan con tomate and Iberico ham. A dish of national pride, the bacalhau à brás, must be ordered and washed down with a bottle of Quinta do Crasto from the Douro. This mix of salted cod, potatoes, parsley and eggs is prepared tableside for a spot of theatre.
The arroz de marisco, a thick flavourful seafood rice dish, is balanced by the chef’s recommendation of a cheerful vinho verde. One flight of stairs takes you to the open rooftop where DJs perform over the summer and hotel guests dip in the infinity pool. The perfect vibe for a white port and tonic as the sun sets.
Or do it at home
Take a taste of Portugal home by picking up a bottle of Silk & Spice (£9, Waitrose). This smooth and spicy red has been on Wine Enthusiasts’ Best Buy list for nine years straight.
The new Bin #017 Douro Rosé 2024 (£12.95, The Wine Society) is an elegantly fruit-forward rosé made from grapes usually saved for fortified wines, resulting in a tasty depth.
The wines of the Lisboa region are typically fresh, vibrant and affordable with the Casa Santos Lime Azulejo White (£10.75 Highbury Vintners) an enjoyably light-footed aromatic white. One of the pioneering winemakers moving these wines into finer wine territory, the Hugo Mendes ‘Lisboa’ Branco (£21.50, wearefesta.co.uk) is a creamy and complex wine with that tell-tale kiss of the sea salinity giving it lift.
With bottles this diverse and delicious it is only a matter of time before Portugal’s wines take their rightful spot on many more wine lists across London.