Why January is the month for steak-loving carnivores like me
Martin Williams: Eat, drink, sleep, repeat – our new columnist’s guide to the best epicurean spots in London. This week: Why January is the best month for red meat, especially steak
As we all tire of festive white meats, January brings out the red meat-loving carnivore in me. Steak Tartar satisfies this. The capital’s most theatrical iteration is found at Maison Francois, which I enjoyed last week with an exceptional Maison Roche de Bellene Gevrey Chambertin (Burgundian royalty at £190).
Soho House also deliver a surprisingly excellent raw beef, and whilst in the Square Mile, New Street Grill offers a tartar to remember, particularly when enjoyed with ‘Purple Angel’ 2019 Carménère (£150) and of course my own 2014 creation, the M Wagyu tartar, remains a signature dish of the Square Mile, which I recommend be savoured alongside a glass (or bottle) of Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2018 (£110).
My love of the best beef also led me to devour many a Josper grilled sirloin and ribeye in the first weeks of the year, the best of which was enjoyed in Chelsea at Tom Kerridges’ Butchers Tap and Grill, with fellow restaurateur Gareth Lloyd-Jones of Buenos Aires.
Next month I promise to dedicate a full column to one of my favourite subjects; steak – where to find the best in London. Until then, if you happen to be across the pond in New York, do try Cote, the Michelin starred Korean Steakhouse, where Kobe and Wagyu rule supreme and wine (only served by the glass) is poured by the magnum, including a 2015 Dom Perignon at £70 a go. Bank balance busting, but a highlight of my month’s dining odyssey.
Finally, two restaurants to bring to your attention, divided by a river, one in the City, the other in leafy Balham:
Coq d’Argent
There is nothing better than walking into a bustling restaurant, feeling the power and energy of all those City grandees talking business and making deals, whilst unapologetically enjoying decadent fare and fine wines. Such was the scene last Thursday at this iconic venue, which has been overseen by Sean Gavin for over two decades of polished hospitality.
The epicurean highlight was a fillet of Dorade topped with caviar, served with a great value 2017 Yering Station, Australian Chardonnay (£165) picked from the sommeliers ‘Love Wine’ list which offers ‘cash margin’ accessible pricing, (a great trend adopted also by both M and Bob Bob Ricard).
Freak Scene
Chef-founder Scott Hallsworth has been opening restaurants across the capital for a decade, starting with Kurobuta in Marble Arch. His latest Pan Asian offering opened in Balham last spring and sits comfortably (though it’s intentionally more casual) between SW restaurant royalty Trinity and Chez Bruce.
The wine list is alas limited (as is the team’s wine knowledge), but pop open a bottle of Laurent-Perrier (£95) as you take in Hallsworth’s artefacts from his travels, including Japanese art, cinema and neon signage, and enjoy the outstanding yellow fin tacos, robata cooked shiitake lettuce cups and the unmissable red duck curry buns.
Name drop: Jamie Redknapp
I recently attended a gathering at M Restaurant where your Golf Travel grandee Andrew Harding and I hosted a table that included Sky Sports’ David Jones, The Last Legs’ Alex Brooker and Liverpool legend Jamie Rednapp.
We indulged in a snaffle of Tignanello 2017 (£180 from Hedonism) and watched A league of Their Own; it was fantastic to see Alex and Jamie having a laugh with Luke Littler. We all feast again together next month…
Whatever the occasion, find the perfect restaurant with OpenTable. Explore real-time availability across London, and filter your results by cuisine, location, and rating.
Book today.
