Working Lunch review: Anglo in Farringdon is a constantly surprising, gastronomic take on modern British cuisine
Anglo
30 St Cross Street, EC1N
WHAT?
Though it bills itself as ‘modern British’, Anglo is gorgeously gastronomic, but without the fuss and frills. Elegantly-arranged tasting dishes are served up on pristine earthenware in a tiny, contemporary dining room that lets the food do the talking.
WHERE?
It was pretty much hidden by a dirty white van parked outside, and what could be more modern British than that? Just off of Hatton Garden, this totally unassuming space, seating 30, literally puts the spotlight on dishes with its low-hanging lamplights. It’s about as far away from Berners Tavern as you can get. In a good way.
WHO?
Mark Jarvis, a Le Manoir graduate who was previously head chef at Bingham in Richmond, and Jack Cashmore, previously of Sat Bains and now defunct Michelin-starred In De Wulf, a highlight of the Belgian dining scene.
Inside Anglo
ORDER THIS…
Menus are changed at least weekly, depending on what produce is in, so it’s unlikely you’ll eat the same thing on repeat visits. However, the waiter confirmed our suspicion that the chefs like things rich. Tangy sticky onions form the base of two dishes, topped with buttermilk potato and duck egg to start and topped with cheese on a malt loaf to finish. Both manage to be fun and gloopy, without cloying to the roof of your mouth. For the main event, the braised Hereford short rib with bone marrow is just as full and sumptuous as it sounds, but the Cornish cod with smoked mussels is a lighter option that’s just as satisfying.
SOMETHING SWEET?
Even though there are only three options, there’s something for everyone. Fans of sticky, tart desserts will delight in the English apple, curled up like a leek and topped with a caramel disc, with Earl Grey ice cream. Those in need of refreshment will get it in the surprising form of a chocolate ganache sandwiched in between a basil leaf and chilled yoghurt. Don’t like dessert? Save the cheese and onion malt loaf ‘til last.
IS THE BOOZE WORTH GETTING SACKED FROM MY SENIOR MANAGEMENT JOB AT LLOYDS?
The wine list has some pretty outre inclusions; apricot-tinged chardonnays from northern Morocco and appley chenin blancs from the outskirts of Cape Town. If beer’s more your thing, there are some bottled craft beauties that go down surprisingly well as, or with, dessert. So yes, it is.
Cod, oyster and cucumber
BUSINESS FRIENDLY?
Certainly, but for intimate meetings designed to impress refined tastes, rather than corporate bashes. Make sure you book ahead at anglorestaurant.com or call 0207 430 1503.
THE VERDICT:
A real treat for the senses, Anglo is a technically accomplished restaurant with dishes that are certain to intrigue London’s serially wined-and dined.
ONE MORE THING…
As it’s based on seasonality, the a la carte lunch menu is similar to the tasting menu, and if you’re going for the full three courses (with mains sitting around the £20 mark) you’re better off going for the tasting menu at £39 once you’ve paid for drinks.