Working Lunch review: Roast in Borough Market unleashes a dinner in a burger that’ll put your mum to shame
Roast
Borough Market, SE1
WHAT?
Roast celebrates British food in all its gravy-sodden, stodgy glory. As you’d expect, it’s famed for its roast dinners, custard-drenched puddings and fantastic fry ups. Tourists flock to it to get a taste of proper British cuisine done well, and City types go there to stock up on red meat. It’s the restaurant your mum thinks she could run after a couple of vinos. But she definitely couldn’t, bless her.
WHERE?
It’s perched atop the Floral Hall in Borough Market in a dining room a bit like an aviary. Think tall ceilings held up by white beams, tables draped with white-linen and floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the Borough Market bustle below.
Roast at night time
WHO?
The British-Bangladeshi founder of fancy curry house Cinnamon Club, Iqbal Wahhab. He’s joined by head chef Stuart Cauldwell, who was head chef at Gordon Ramsay’s The Narrow in Limehouse, then executive sous chef at The Wolseley before heading up Roast.
ORDER THIS…
Four weeks ago, Cauldwell decided to “embrace consumers’ love of over the top food hybrids” by inventing the Ultimate Roast Burger, a teetering tower of carved beef, ale and mustard cheddar, kale and cabbage, sandwiched in between a rosemary, garlic, roast potato bun. That’s right, roast potatoes baked into a bun stabbed through the middle with a carving knife to keep it all together. Yet it’s surprisingly easy to eat; the beef tears away tenderly and a tiny side saucepan of red wine onion gravy moistens things up magnificently. It’s on the bar menu, though, so you’ll have to ask for it if you’re in the restaurant.
Ooey-gooey Scotch egg. Photo: Melissa York
ANYTHING ELSE?
Needless to say, side dishes are not needed, but the Scotch egg starter – lightly crumbed and oozing yolk – comes highly recommended, accompanied by a lurid, yet heavenly, piccalilli.
NEED TO BOOK?
Definitely. Call (0) 203 0066 111 or email [email protected]. For bigger events, Call (0) 203 0066 111 option 2 ,or email [email protected]
ONE MORE THING…
Also new for 2017 is the Roast Flight Menu, a selection of small plates available from lunchtime during the week, a lighter option for those wanting to leave without a roast potato bun in the oven.