Working Lunch review: Roma restores Ancient Roman cuisine to Canada on the site of an old fort
Roma
14 New London St, EC3R 7NA
WHAT?
Do you remember Harper’s, that bland, beige wine bar down an alley by Fenchurch Street station? No? Just as well because it’s been given a marbled makeover and now it’s a culinary tribute to the glories of Ancient Rome. Expect hefty cuts of meat and an empire-spanning wine list.
WHERE?
On the site of an old Roman fort, apparently. A bust of emperor Claudius confronts guests at the reception desk, architectural sketches of the Coliseum are plastered over the walls, a parade of smoked meats hang in front of an open kitchen and a series of golden banquettes serve as chariots for the evening.
WHO?
He might sound like the superhero the Wild West needs and deserves, but Steton Steele is actually the consultant chef, with eight years of country gastropub experience to back him up. Parisian restaurant manager Pauline Dubord comes from the French fine dining tradition, having worked in France, on luxury cruise liners and in Mayfair’s Michelin-starred Brasserie Chavot until it closed last year.
A golden booth in Roma
ORDER THIS…
The restaurant’s décor may dive headfirst into Roman imperial splendour, but the menu dips its toes in the shallows. This is probably a good thing – no one needs to eat dormice and wolf nipple chips any more. The Romans were very much into their bread, though, a tradition I can get on board with, served up in wedges like door stops with salt on the side.
Starters – cold cuts, chunky terrine, thumb-sized olives – is primal finger food at its best, while the mains stick accurately to fish, seafood and poultry. The main event is a slow-cooked leg of lamb for two in a sticky honey and lavender sauce, and an earthy lamb rump cooked in hay (but presented a la mode, i.e. on a wooden board with kale). Poor vegetarians will struggle, with only a truffled gnocchi version of the ubiquitous mushroom risotto on offer, while pancakes with crème anglaise and fresh fruit tarts make for a heavy dessert menu. But there are plenty of surprisingly zesty sweet wines that are worth a look if you’re ready to be fed to the lions by the course three.
BUSINESS OR PLEASURE?
The banquettes come highly recommended for both the privacy and opulence necessary for a successful business meeting. The thumping club soundtrack is less welcome, but creates a lively ambience in the evening.
NEED TO BOOK?
No need, as it’s enormous and not terribly well known. If you want to reserve a larger table though, call 020 7488 2807 or visit its website roma.london
Mussels and clams "de re coquinaria" with a lovage dipping sauce
THE VERDICT:
The Roman theme is subtle and well-executed, and the chrome-and-mosaic interiors are nothing short of majestic. The thoughtful menu, packed with good produce, represents a welcome change of pace in an area that can rely too heavily on steakhouses and fine dining.
ONE MORE THING:
The wine list gallops across Roman territories taking in Italy, France, Macedonia and Spain. Bottles are even traced back to the exact same vineyards the soldiers would have drunk in a thousand years ago.