The drinks master: Marcis Dzelanis on why you need to reconsider the virtues of cognac
When you ask people about Cognac it often conjures up images of gentleman’s clubs, mahogany furniture, leather bound books and postprandial cigars.
But Cognac is starting to shake off its stuffy image, with a new breed of producers embracing a dynamic approach to how the spirit is produced.
They are challenging the conventional wisdoms, such as; only great Cognac can be produced in the Grande and Petite Champagne regions, instead highlighting how great terroir can be found all throughout the Cognac region, if you look hard enough. Rather than sticking to just Ugni Blanc (the grape most widely used in Cognac production), they are using older, less used varietals such as; Folle Blanche and Colombard.
Bartenders too, are changing their approach to the spirit, opting to pair it with light, fresh and fruit driven flavours. Whilst previously favoured in stirred down boozy concoction, Cognac is making a comeback as a great spirit to use in long and refreshing highballs. Here are a couple of suggestions for you to try at home:
Cognac & Elderflower Hi-Ball
GLASS: HIGH BALL
Ingredients
• 35ml Cognac
• 15ml Elderflower Cordial
• 10ml Fresh Lemon Juice
• 200ml Soda Water
• Garnish Lemon twist
Method
• Fill a tall glass with cubed ice, pour all the ingredients over the ice expect the soda
• Give a very quick stir to chill and top up with more ice if necessary
• Top with soda water and give a gentle stir to mix
• Garnish with a lemon twist.
Grape expectations
GLASS: HIGH BALL
Ingredients
• 50ml Cognac
• 3-4 Good Quality Red Grapes
• 10ml Lemon Juice
• 5ml Maple Syrup
• 125ml Cloudy Apple Juice
• Garnish: A couple of grapes sliced in half
Method
• Add the grapes into a mixing glass and give good muddle to crush them up
• Add all the other ingredients, except the apple juice and give a good quick shake.
• Strain into glass full of ice, top with apple juice and give a stir to mix, then garnish.
On buying cognac
Whilst the perception is that you need to spend a lot of money in order to buy a really good bottle of Cognac, nothing could be further from the truth. Look for a small producer like Francois Voyer, Fanny Fougerat or Maxime Trijol and start with a VSOP, no need to start splashing on XO or Paradis expressions. Also, a darker spirit doesn’t always mean better, quite often with smaller producers you’ll find their range to lighter in colour.
• The Cognac Highball is available at Bassoon Bar at Corinthia Hotel