Glamorous Monaco: Why there’s never been a better time to visit
Occupying a slim slice of prime seafront real estate on the sun-baked Riviera, the sovereign city state of Monaco might be small—Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens are bigger, in terms of square kilometres—but it rarely does things by halves. Here, less is certainly not more and over-the-top is always à la mode, from the old money to the nouveau riche.
This summer, the glamourous principality is looking shinier than ever, thanks to a slew of new
openings, from ritzy restaurants to bouji beach clubs. Monaco’s fabled Carre d’Or address, Hotel Metropole, strikes gold with the new restaurant, Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac. A Belle Époque icon dating back to 1886, the hotel has a long culinary heritage; and while this version of Les Ambassadeurs is a new concept, the name comes from one of the hotel’s former restaurants, a 1920s hotspot for visiting diplomats.
“We thought it was interesting and important to reconnect with this past,” says Chef Christophe Cussac. “We found archives containing photos of the period and menus. They offered fish, sole, and simple dishes that were linked to the Mediterranean…Not necessarily fancy menus, as you might think.” Nowadays, things are very fancy though, with Cussac serving modern classic signatures like gold-topped caviar cannelloni and lobster lasagne.
Regarded as the principality’s best hotel, the iconic grand dame hotel Hôtel de Paris is not giving up the crown any time soon. The old gal is looking better than ever after emerging from her recent multi-million pound makeover in 2019. The hotel is owned by Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, which also claims ownership of the (in)famous Monaco casino, located just a few steps away in the Place du Casino. (While it’s not open yet, Amazónico—the upscale, excessively stylish twist on the rainforest café—is also coming to the Place du Casino, on the rooftop of the Café de Paris Monte-Carlo.)
The love nests are deliciously private… It’s all live DJs and caviar bumps, with an understated, beachy air
For the most palatial of pads in the opulent Hôtel de Paris, opt for the newly redressed Princess Grace Suite with its own private swimming pool or the two-level Prince Rainier III Suite—both of which take their names from some of the hotel’s most famous guests. What else not to miss at the Hôtel de Paris? A sunny new outpost of the Beirut-born Em Sherif opened last year and is already a favourite spot for cold mezze plates; fruit chichas; and icy and tropical Beirut Mules–made with arak (distilled spirit flavoured with liquoricey anise), plus rum, and a splash of fresh citrus.
Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer has also been busy adding two new restaurants to their glowing coterie: Nestled in a cicada-filled pine grove above the waves, Club La Vigie is the coolest new daytime beach club. Make sure you book this one in advance; it’s already become the spot to be in the Riviera. The new spot comes fully equipped with so-called love nests, hidden cliffside bungalows, which accommodate up to six people, though they work best for couples.
The love nests are deliciously private, but in the main beach club area, it’s all live DJs, caviar bumps, and sugar baby with an understated, beachy air, the hotel is not new (it dates back to the Roaring Twenties), but the parasol-adorned restaurant Elsa, is still worth a visit—especially with its newest accolade. Elsa, which takes its name from high society gossip columnist Elsa Maxwell, has a new chef at the helm, Mélanie Serre, and was recently awarded La Liste’s Ethical and Environmental Responsibility Prize in the 2023 edition of the Mediterranean Awards.
The distinction recognises Serre’s dedication to using only the very best local and sustainable
ingredients like vegetables from the high altitude kitchen garden of the nearby Domaine d’Agerbol and sustainably fished seafood plucked right from the Mediterranean. Even the wine list is laid out by distance to underscore local provenance and highlight nearby vineyards.
On the cultural front, the micro-nation is also delivering this summer: Newly discovered Renaissance-era frescos are now open for public viewings at the Prince’s Palace of Monaco. The frescos are thought to date back to the sixteenth century and depict the classical myth of the twelve labours of Hercules, which is fitting, considering the frescos were found in the palace’s Galerie d’Hercule. Also, a series of summer concerts will be filling the courtyard of the palace with music this summer.
And lastly, this year’s edition of the always-buzzy Monte-Carlo Summer Festival (running through the end of August) includes stars like Mika; Eros Ramazzotti; and Turkish megastar Tarkan.
Visit Monaco yourself
Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo and Monte-Carlo Beach. For more information go to visitmonaco.com and montecarlosbm.com