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Thursday 29 December 2022 9:30 am  |  Updated:  Wednesday 25 September 2024 4:50 pm

Rails in Kings Cross: A new fine dining option worthy of an early commute

By: Libby Brodie

Wine Consultant - Bacchus & Brodie

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Rails is the new top dining spot at the transport hub that is King’s Cross, replacing Plum + Spilt Milk in a large airy space on the first floor of the Great Northern Hotel. 

Designed to be bold yet elegant the high-ceilinged dining room is full of warm wooden panelling, cream leather banquettes, hanging pendant lights and large abstract paintings on the walls. 

On a Friday evening it was surprisingly empty, with only a few full tables while we dined, but the convivial service by the charming staff and cosy corner booth meant this did not affect our experience. 

Having walked past an array of glass cabinets boasting some of the best Champagne houses on offer I was already excited by the wine list, and it did not disappoint with some truly fantastic bottles, especially above the £100 mark. 

A bottle of Sanford 2019 Chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills was a sumptuous delight and paired indulgently with the baked St Marcellin starter served with truffle honey that I smeared on thick slices of toasted French bread. 

The mains menu is succinct, and the Grill is clearly King, so we opted for the Chateaubriand to share. It was fantastic. Butter-soft slices of pink tenderloin beef, perfectly seasoned and in so large a portion that even between two we failed to finish it. 

My personal pièce de résistance however was the Île Flottante, which has to be one of the most heavenly joyful desserts ever created, but one which I rarely find in London. A little island of fluffy meringue gracefully floating on a pool of delicately sweet custard and topped by crunchy flakes of almond. It will always leave a smile on my face. 

Whether heading home from work or off on the Eurostar to Paris it is worth factoring a few extra hours into the commute and indulging in Rails’ fine-dining fare.

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Hélène Darroze à la carte is the ultimate lunchtime luxury

Dining room at The Connaught, featuring a large window, wooden paneling, and elegant seating.

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