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Saturday 24 July 2021 10:07 am  |  Updated:  Saturday 24 July 2021 10:08 am

Sofitel St James: Rediscover London with a touch of luxury

By: James Warrington

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The Wild Honey restaurant at the Sofitel St James

When a man is tired of London, he should probably try booking a staycation here. With international travel still (somehow) in disarray, and the languorous month of August looming, it’s only sensible that Brits look closer to home for a break. But forget the packed beaches of Cornwall or the rural gridlock of the Lake District, because a true Londonder can find escape in the capital.

The key, of course, is change. Apart from a very lucky few, the majority of us have been cast out of central London during the pandemic, developing an unhealthy familiarity with our little slice of the city or even — God forbid — a newfound interest in cycling. So for real escapism, it’s back into the heart of the action.

This is where the Sofitel St James comes in. Sat in opulent splendour on Waterloo Place, this Grade II-listed hotel is undoubtedly luxurious, but it wears its status lightly. Stepping out from its high-ceilinged lobby, you’re just moments away from Pall Mall, St James’ Park and Westminster to the south, while Piccadilly Circus, the theatres of the West End and the joys of the now continentally-alfresco Soho are just a short walk to the north. Public transport, with its crowds and masks, is an irrelevance to the Sofitel guest. Of course, the setting appeals to the discerning business traveller but, in our surreal world of staycations, it also opens the door to a part of our city that feels — in recent months at least — underloved.

The location is not the Sofitel’s only draw, however. From the marble-floored reception to the plush rose-drenched afternoon tea lounge and intimate, dimly-lit bar, there’s an understated grandeur moulded from the building’s former life as a bank. The rooms have been refurbished in a modern, vibrant style, with amenities including a Nespresso coffee machine, an iPod docking station and Hermes toiletries. The bed in my room was so vast that it required a minor expedition to cross from one side to the other, while the double windows and thick velour curtains shut out the noise and light with such stubbornness that, for those few precious moments after waking up, you feel you could be anywhere.

For the perennially active, there’s a 24-hour gym, while the spa offers a range of indulgences including a steam room and jacuzzi, though these are only accessible with a booking — perhaps the hotel’s only source of disappointment. As we’ve come to expect from the Sofitel chain, the service is excellent. The French-speaking staff are always happy to help, while a text messaging feature for requests is a further nice touch.

What really sets the place aside, however, is the Wild Honey restaurant. Set against the backdrop of a stylish modern interior, chef Anthony Demetre serves up a remarkable selection of sophisticated European dishes. A gorgeous wild mushroom tart and fresh Cornish cockles kick off proceedings, followed by rich main dishes of beef and Welsh lamb. But the star of the show is the wild honey ice cream topped with raw honeycomb, provided by some obliging bees across town in Bermondsey and carved by the waiter in all its decadent gooeyness into your bowl.

If it’s an escape you’re after, then, there’s a lot to be said for reacquainting yourself with the capital, and there’s no greater way to do it than in style.

To book a room at the Sofitel St James visit their website here.

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