Dave’s Wine Bar: Why I think it’s a Toast the City star
Dave’s Wine Bar is one of our . Libby Brodie visits to find out what makes it such a special drinking den
Dave’s Wine Bar is tucked up St James Passage, a handily central space for a glass of great wine in the City. Named for David Howden, the CEO of Howden Insurance, it reflects his passion for hospitality, good food and wine. He had success with The Pointer in Brill, which was named Michelin Pub of the Year in 2018, and opened Dave’s in December 2023 with the idea of creating something a little different in the Square Mile. A key element is his passion for sustainable farming, with much of the produce coming from his own Cornbury House Farm.
Dave’s began as a project to bring the best of the countryside into the heart of the City and now it’s a comfortably petite, airy space where people can meet for a business lunch, sip a glass of wine after work or woo a client or lover at the emerald-tiled bar.
General manager Alessandra Facciolo describes it as a “bar where wine is at the centre, but it isn’t intimidating. We want people to discover something new, whether they know a lot about wine or very little”.
The clientele is mostly made up of those working nearby in finance and law, so expect to be seated next to the odd informal client meeting during the day. But the vibe is always relaxed, with a constant stream of wine-loving locals who have made it their own, and a few thirsty tourists who want to take in the modern city architecture softened by the trees on their terrace.
It strikes me as a partially hidden oasis in the middle of the frantic financial district – one that serves great wines ranging from Burgundian Pinot Noirs to premium English sparkling and an exceptionally quaffable Gavi that remains a best seller. There’s also half price food on Fridays and up to a quarter off the drink-in price for any bottles you want to take home.
As the season changes, so does the wine list, so I asked Facciolo what wines he will be recommending this month: “Autumn is made for Pinot Noir,” he says. “Something elegant and earthy, with enough freshness to work with food but plenty of savoury character as the weather gets cooler. I love it with roast chicken, mushrooms or anything with a little autumnal earthiness.
“Nebbiolo is perhaps the ultimate autumn red, with its aromas of dried flowers, herbs and red fruit making it incredibly versatile with richer food. It’s also a wine that rewards you for slowing down and spending some time with it.
“And a Vouvray has the perfect balance of freshness, texture and complexity for autumn. It works beautifully with cheese, pork, poultry or richer fish dishes. It’s also a great reminder that autumn doesn’t automatically mean reaching for red wine”.
• For more information on Dave’s Wine Bar visit the website here
Wine Recommendations
Lingua Franca Avni Pinot Noir – £48.99, Selfridges
It may be Autumn but are we over the lightly chilled reds yet? I’m certainly not. This smooth, fruity Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley is great with just a touch of time in the fridge to render it even fresher and silkier. Plenty of flavour for a light wine, this calls for a rabbit ragu or game dishes.
Champagne Telmont Réserve de la Terre Rosé – £79.95, The Whisky Exchange
September is Organic month so what better than an organic champagne that puts the planet front and centre of their sustainable winemaking. Known for its crisp dry style (and that Leonardo di Caprio is a shareholder) this rosé, with its classy rose hip and red berry notes is an ideal aperitif.
Diemersdal Sauvignon Blanc Reserve – £16, Waitrose
This South African reserve white gives a little bit more that the average Sauvignon Blanc. There is a richness and structure to this sophisticated white wine, with the heat of Durbanville bringing perfumed tropical fruits to the fore underpinned by the freshness of lime zest. Delicious.